Average rating 4.9/5 stars across all Google and external reviews
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Bought directly from Philipponnat's UK agent, the bottles are stored in bond at London City Bond Eton Park, in ideal conditions at a constant 13°C. For same-day deliveries, small quantities are kept in our office cellar, where the temperature is maintained between 11–13°C. We source all our bottles directly from the Maison or their official UK office, eliminating the risk of poor storage. This is crucial, as champagne quality is highly sensitive to heat: temperatures above 18°C accelerate maturity significantly, which compromises quality.
The Philipponnat family, originally from Switzerland, settled in Champagne in the middle of the 16th century. Their history as vine-growers is believed to have begun in 1522, but the house as we know it today wasn't officially founded until 1910. Pierre Philipponnat established his house in a difficult era, with the Champagne Riots, a World War, and the Great Depression incoming. But the house's fortunes changed in 1935, when Pierre acquired what would eventually become one of Champagne's greatest treasures and one of the world's greatest wines - a little-known, steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard called Clos des Goisses, which is still the jewel in the Philipponnat crown today.
In 1997, the house was purchased by Bruno Paillard, becoming part of what is now the Lanson-BCC Group. Although Philipponnat has lost family ownership, it is now back under family management, after Paillard convinced sixteenth generation Charles Philipponnat to come and run the business his grandfather had founded 90 years earlier. Alongside cellar master Thierry Garnier, who has been with Philipponnat since 1993, Charles has been busy establishing a more Pinot-dominant house style, much-loved by connoisseurs. Philipponnat are also celebrated in the trade for printing disgorgement dates on their labels, which they have been doing since 1996. Today, Philipponnat enjoys growing acclaim from both wine critics and the world of haute cuisine.
The jewel in the Champagne Philipponnat crown is a tiny 5.5-hecatre single walled vineyard called Clos des Goisses. Acquired in 1935, Pierre Philipponnat was quick to realise the potential of this unique plot and immediately started producing a single vineyard blend. Originally named Vin des Goisses, it was changed to Clos de Goisses in 1959 and thus the category of Clos champagnes (produced from grapes within walled vineyards) was born. Clos des Goisses is truly iconic: situated by the Marne canal, it is a steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard with an inclination of 35-45 degrees that can only be fully appreciated by visiting. Gois, means a very steep slope. Due to its size, production is limited to a maximum of 55,000 bottles each year.
Weather: After a rainy but mild winter without any prolonged cold spells, spring arrived with some very localised frosts. Cool weather returned in June and the infrequent sunshine prolonged the feeling of freshness. The spring to autumn weather was bright with sunny spells and the long, hot days and cool nights during September gave the grapes excellent acidity during the harvest period. The 2008 vintage is fast emerging as one of the best since the renowned and now-legendary 2002.
Technical Information:
Vineyards: 100% 1er Cru Mareuil-sur-Ay - Single vineyard: Clos des Goisses
Grape Varieties: 45% Pinot Noir, 55% Chardonnay
Ageing: 10 years on the lees
Disgorged: April 2017
Dosage: 4.5 g/l
Drink: Now to 2030
Tasting Note: Elegant and light gold colour with a fine stream of bubbles. The palate has an abundance of fruits and citrus, with delicate hints of brioche and vanilla. A creamy mousse on the midpalate combines with honey and gentle spices. A stunning example from 2008, from a magnificent single vineyard.
Almost 500 years ago, the ancestor of Apvril Philipponnat - a soldier of King François - was awarded land in the village of Aÿ as a reward for his bravery during the Battle of Marignan. During the 16th century the Philipponnat family were winegrowers and merchants, famously supplying the court of Louis XIV. However, it took a few centuries for Champagne Philipponnat to be founded - finally being established by Pierre Philipponnat in 1910.
The House now owns seventeen hectares of vines, all situated in the Grand and Premier Cru vineyards of Avenay, Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Traditional methods of harvest such as working the soil through horse ploughing and hoeing by hand are still observed at Champagne Philipponnat today. Their techniques of partial fermentation in oak and partial malolactic fermentation result in a complex and long-lived style of champagne. They were also one of the first producers to print disgorgement dates on the label of their bottles, commencing this practice in the mid-1990s.
Cellar Master: Thierry Garnier
Winery Location: Mareuil-sur-Aÿ | Champagne, France
Champagne Region: Vallée de la Marne
Annual Production (bottles): 700,000
Expert Reviews
98/100
Antonio Galloni
“The 2008 Clos des Goisses is just as impressive today as it has always been. Rich, dense and explosive, the 2008 exists in three dimensions, with remarkable textural depth and vertical intensity to burn. Clos des Goisses is notoriously slow to develop. Readers who can be patient will be treated to a spectacular Champagne. The blend is 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, which makes the 2008 a rare Clos des Goisses that favors Chardonnay. About 75% of the lots were fermented in oak. Disgorged April 2017. Dosage is 4.25 grams per liter.”
18/20
Julia Harding MW
“45% Pinot Noir, 55% Chardonnay - this is exceptional for Clos des Goisses, which is usually about two-thirds Pinot Noir. They thought the Chardonnay was particularly good in this vintage (plus they had uprooted some Pinot in 2001/02 and are waiting for the replanted vines to mature). Disgorged April 2017 – this is the first of (probably) three disgorgements. Dosage always 4.25 g/l, whatever the vintage. Pale gold, gorgeously rich fruit – peach and honeyed citrus with light yeasty notes. Creamy and shot through with citrus intensity, perhaps a hint of bergamot. With all this depth of flavour, the freshness is notable and perfectly balanced. Charles Philipponnat showed this alongside the 1996 (a 50/50 blend) as he thinks they were quite similar vintages, though some 1996s, he noted, 'have collapsed and left only acidity'. He also explained that in his experience, it is not just acidity that contributes to longevity but also 'the purity of aroma'. Hence my long drinking window here. Going back to this later: the aromas have developed to include a slight suggestion of ginger and honeycomb and it went extremely – unexpectedly – well with the goat's cheese salad. This is clean limbed and very pure. (JH)”
18+/20
Jancis Robinson MW
“All from this grand cru enclosed vineyard. 45% Pinot Noir, 55% Chardonnay; 75% in oak, no malo. Aged for 10 years on the lees. Disgorged April 2017. Dosage 4.25 g/l – always! Charles Philipponnat thinks 2008 is like 1996. Tasted blind. Dense. Savoury and tangy. Explosive on the palate. Really like a firework! Neat and fresh yet ready. Really rather gorgeous. 2008? Drink 2017-2030”
"The biggest challenge was not making too much!" With an abundance of ripe and healthy grapes, Philipponnat had a successful harvest in 2018, a vintage which sixteenth generation family member Charles Philipponnat likens to 1995, 2009 and 2012.
Since the early 21st century, a quiet revolution has been occurring in Champagne, and the ever-burgeoning demand for artisanal, hand-crafted cuvées continues to flourish. What are the origins of single vineyard champagnes, why are they so popular, and are they a fad or the future?
Charles Philipponnat describes 2017 as a "funny vintage". We visited the house of Philipponnat to taste the vins clairs and find out just what he means. Whilst there, we also sampled an incredible range of champagnes, including new Clos des Goisses 2009.
