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Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut 2014

Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut 2014

Mix 12
£474.00
Mix 6
£476.00
Per Bottle
£480.00
Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut 2014
Delivery Requires up to 2 Working Days Stored Professionally in-bond outside London LCB Eton Park

Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut 2014 Overview

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The Philipponnat family, originally from Switzerland, settled in Champagne in the middle of the 16th century. Their history as vine-growers is believed to have begun in 1522, but the house as we know it today wasn't officially founded until 1910. Pierre Philipponnat established his house in a difficult era, with the Champagne Riots, a World War, and the Great Depression incoming. But the house's fortunes changed in 1935, when Pierre acquired what would eventually become one of Champagne's greatest treasures and one of the world's greatest wines - a little-known, steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard called Clos des Goisses, which is still the jewel in the Philipponnat crown today.

In 1997, the house was purchased by Bruno Paillard, becoming part of what is now the Lanson-BCC Group. Although Philipponnat has lost family ownership, it is now back under family management, after Paillard convinced sixteenth generation Charles Philipponnat to come and run the business his grandfather had founded 90 years earlier. Alongside cellar master Thierry Garnier, who has been with Philipponnat since 1993, Charles has been busy establishing a more Pinot-dominant house style, much-loved by connoisseurs. Philipponnat are also celebrated in the trade for printing disgorgement dates on their labels, which they have been doing since 1996. Today, Philipponnat enjoys growing acclaim from both wine critics and the world of haute cuisine.

The jewel in the Champagne Philipponnat crown is a tiny 5.5-hecatre single walled vineyard called Clos des Goisses. Acquired in 1935, Pierre Philipponnat was quick to realise the potential of this unique plot and immediately started producing a single vineyard blend. Originally named Vin des Goisses, it was changed to Clos de Goisses in 1959 and thus the category of Clos champagnes (produced from grapes within walled vineyards) was born. Clos des Goisses is truly iconic: situated by the Marne canal, it is a steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard with an inclination of 35-45 degrees that can only be fully appreciated by visiting. Gois, means a very steep slope. Due to its size, production is limited to a maximum of 55,000 bottles each year.

Vinification: The 5.83 hectare vineyard protected by walls is one of the region’s few “clos” and the oldest and steepest in Champagne. In a perfect position facing due south, it stands on the best hillside in Mareuil-sur-Ay. It really is an exceptional terroir where the chalky bedrock is very close to the surface. Partial vinification (64%) in wooden barrels leads to more complexity without premature oxidation. There is no malolactic fermentation, which enables the wine’s natural acidity to compensate the powerful character of the terroir.

Cultivation: Due to the steep slope wineyard, work in the Clos des Goisses is almost entirely done by hand, and the vines are trained with particular care. No insecticides nor synthetic herbicides are used. Weeds are controlled with traditional mechanical methods, tilling and hoeing by hand the steepest slopes.

Weather: 2014 was characterised by mild temperatures and frequent rainfall and a few weeks of high temperatures, a very solid vintage with good ripeness and acidity. Flowering began in June and summer was a combination of dry, wet and cold spells. Some regions saw some disease and Meunier in the Marne Valley didn’t have a great year and some of the Pinot Noir with its thinner skin made it more difficult for the red grapes. Harvest took place from 13th to 25th September. A year where it was necessary to select the red grapes carefully to maintain high quality. In general Chardonnay is the star of the vintage.

Technical Information:
Vineyards: 100% 1er Cru, Mareuil-sur-Ay - Single vineyard: Clos des Goisses
Grape Varieties: 71% Pinot Noir, 29% Chardonnay
Lees Ageing: 8 years
Fermentation: 64% in Oak, 36% in steel & 0% Malolactic
Disgorged: March 2023
Dosage: 4.5 g/l
Production: 19,984 bottles
Drink: Now to 2040

Tasting Note: Delicate scents of wet pebbles, lime blossom, and green apples plus emerging wafts of Marcona almonds, yuzu, and baking bread. Light-bodied and very dry, the palate is super-fine and delicately crafted, with a lively backbone supporting the intense flavors, finishing long and minerally. - Tasted by Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW
Champagne Philipponnat History
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Expert Reviews
94 → 96/100
Antonio Galloni
“I tasted the 2014 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses from a bottle disgorged a la volée, in other words with no dosage and no sulfur added. At this very early and unfinished stage, the 2014 appears to be a linear, focused Champagne built more on persistence and focus than body, which is to say very much in the style of the year. Of course, much can change with dosage. It will be interesting to see how things end up. The blend is 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, done 64% in oak, 36% in steel, with no malolactic fermentation in any of the lots.”
96/100
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW
“The 2014 Clos des Goisses, 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, is Extra Brut at 4.5 g/L dosage and was disgorged in March 2023. It needs a little coaxing to bring out delicate scents of wet pebbles, lime blossom, and green apples plus emerging wafts of Marcona almonds, yuzu, and baking bread. Light-bodied and very dry, the palate is super-fine and delicately crafted, with a lively backbone supporting the intense flavors, finishing long and minerally.”
95/100
Jane Anson
“The kind of dry that in Champagne puts the emphasis on all the right places - salt-scraping, pure citrus, quince, gooseberry and lemon grass, with chalky persistency, relaxing through the mid palate to show brioche, almonds, candied ginger, graphite, concentrated and scintillating, so good. Another cool vintage in Champagne that here puts the emphasis on finesse, but with higher yield than the 2013, all perfectly handled by the legendary 5ha of Clos des Goisses walled vineyard that is located on the slopes of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Thierry Garnier cellar master. 60% aged in Burgundy barrels, 40% in stainless steel tanks, no malo, 4.5g/l dosage.”
News Articles
  1. Philipponnat: 2018 Vins Clairs Tasting

    Philipponnat: 2018 Vins Clairs Tasting

    May 6, 2019

    "The biggest challenge was not making too much!" With an abundance of ripe and healthy grapes, Philipponnat had a successful harvest in 2018, a vintage which sixteenth generation family member Charles Philipponnat likens to 1995, 2009 and 2012.
  2. Single Vineyard Champagne: Fad or Future?

    Single Vineyard Champagne: Fad or Future?

    January 19, 2019

    Since the early 21st century, a quiet revolution has been occurring in Champagne, and the ever-burgeoning demand for artisanal, hand-crafted cuvées continues to flourish. What are the origins of single vineyard champagnes, why are they so popular, and are they a fad or the future?
  3. Philipponnat: 2017 Vins Clairs and new Clos des Goisses 2009

    Philipponnat: 2017 Vins Clairs and new Clos des Goisses 2009

    May 9, 2018

    Charles Philipponnat describes 2017 as a "funny vintage". We visited the house of Philipponnat to taste the vins clairs and find out just what he means. Whilst there, we also sampled an incredible range of champagnes, including new Clos des Goisses 2009.
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