Average rating 4.9/5 stars across all Google and external reviews
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Bought directly from Philipponnat's UK agent, the bottles are stored in bond at London City Bond Eton Park, in ideal conditions at a constant 13°C. For same-day deliveries, small quantities are kept in our office cellar, where the temperature is maintained between 11–13°C. We source all our bottles directly from the Maison or their official UK office, eliminating the risk of poor storage. This is crucial, as champagne quality is highly sensitive to heat: temperatures above 18°C accelerate maturity significantly, which compromises quality.
The Philipponnat family, originally from Switzerland, settled in Champagne in the middle of the 16th century. Their history as vine-growers is believed to have begun in 1522, but the house as we know it today wasn't officially founded until 1910. Pierre Philipponnat established his house in a difficult era, with the Champagne Riots, a World War, and the Great Depression incoming. But the house's fortunes changed in 1935, when Pierre acquired what would eventually become one of Champagne's greatest treasures and one of the world's greatest wines - a little-known, steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard called Clos des Goisses, which is still the jewel in the Philipponnat crown today.
In 1997, the house was purchased by Bruno Paillard, becoming part of what is now the Lanson-BCC Group. Although Philipponnat has lost family ownership, it is now back under family management, after Paillard convinced sixteenth generation Charles Philipponnat to come and run the business his grandfather had founded 90 years earlier. Alongside cellar master Thierry Garnier, who has been with Philipponnat since 1993, Charles has been busy establishing a more Pinot-dominant house style, much-loved by connoisseurs. Philipponnat are also celebrated in the trade for printing disgorgement dates on their labels, which they have been doing since 1996. Today, Philipponnat enjoys growing acclaim from both wine critics and the world of haute cuisine.
The jewel in the Champagne Philipponnat crown is a tiny 5.5-hecatre single walled vineyard called Clos des Goisses. Acquired in 1935, Pierre Philipponnat was quick to realise the potential of this unique plot and immediately started producing a single vineyard blend. Originally named Vin des Goisses, it was changed to Clos de Goisses in 1959 and thus the category of Clos champagnes (produced from grapes within walled vineyards) was born. Clos des Goisses is truly iconic: situated by the Marne canal, it is a steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard with an inclination of 35-45 degrees that can only be fully appreciated by visiting. Gois, means a very steep slope. Due to its size, production is limited to a maximum of 55,000 bottles each year.
Weather: The 2006 vintage was a year of mixed weather. It began with a rainy spell and late spring, but with little or no frost in the vineyards. Early summer was positive, with the months of June and July creating perfect conditions for flowering. Although there were some storms in late-July, the overall health of the vines was great since the weather remained hot through to the harvest with spells of rain in August promoting even healthier grapes.
Technical Information:
Vineyards: 100% 1er Cru | Single vineyard: Clos des Goisses
Grape Varieties: 65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay
Ageing: 8 years on the lees
Dosage: 4.5 g/l
Drink: Now to 2027
Tasting Note: The 2006 vintage produced an abundant harvest with grapes that ripened well, giving rise to supple elegant and fruity wines. This displays a pale golden colour with hints of elderflower on the nose. On the palate: a bold freshness with notes of blackberrys, toasty flavours and a raspberry finish. A lower dosage champagne but with very rich flavours.
Almost 500 years ago, the ancestor of Apvril Philipponnat - a soldier of King François - was awarded land in the village of Aÿ as a reward for his bravery during the Battle of Marignan. During the 16th century the Philipponnat family were winegrowers and merchants, famously supplying the court of Louis XIV. However, it took a few centuries for Champagne Philipponnat to be founded - finally being established by Pierre Philipponnat in 1910.
The House now owns seventeen hectares of vines, all situated in the Grand and Premier Cru vineyards of Avenay, Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Traditional methods of harvest such as working the soil through horse ploughing and hoeing by hand are still observed at Champagne Philipponnat today. Their techniques of partial fermentation in oak and partial malolactic fermentation result in a complex and long-lived style of champagne. They were also one of the first producers to print disgorgement dates on the label of their bottles, commencing this practice in the mid-1990s.
Cellar Master: Thierry Garnier
Winery Location: Mareuil-sur-Aÿ | Champagne, France
Champagne Region: Vallée de la Marne
Annual Production (bottles): 700,000
Expert Reviews
95 → 97/100
Essi Avellan MW
“I was already blown away by the nose. This is Clos des Goisses! Such complexity, harmony and depth on the nose. And stunning toast on top of the ripe, plush fruit. It seems to be a touch more on the reductive side than Les Cintres. Generous, soothing and round palate where the mousse has more life than in Les Cintres. Great dimensionality and tension. A real body-builder with plenty of muscle and ages ahead of it. I am impressed with the 2006, despite I am normally not a fan of Clos des Goisses’ ripest vintages (bottle disgorged May 2015).”
96/100
Antonio Galloni
“The 2006 Clos des Goisses is stellar, but it is also going to need quite a bit of time to come into its own. Powerful and ample in the best of the Goisses style, the 2006 hits the palate with serious intensity. Orchard fruits, lemon oil, white flowers and almonds are some of the many notes that open up in the glass, but, as is often the case with young Goisses, it is the wine's gravitas that is front and center. Even with all of its overtness, though, the 2006 retains striking, crystalline purity. I imagine the 2006 will reward Champagne lovers with many decades of truly exceptional drinking. The only thing the 2006 needs is time. The question is: How much?”
94/100
Michael Edwards
“This perfect south-facing vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay is a fine ambassador for 2006. The wine is holding on to elegance and poise despite warm conditions, thanks to a proportion of Chardonnay (35%) bringing welcome freshness and finesse. This balances the generous, expansive Pinot Noir in '06 -acacia honey and black cherry in happy marriage. Subtle and classy. ”
18/20
Jancis Robinson MW
“Firm straw colour. Really distinctive nose – rather minerally and intense. Soars out of the glass. The bead is just a little coarse and the wine positively screams for attention. Although the dosage is so low, the wine actually tastes quite rich, although it finishes very firmly and dry. A really personality-laden wine. A whole percentage point more potent than most. Kerpow! ”
"The biggest challenge was not making too much!" With an abundance of ripe and healthy grapes, Philipponnat had a successful harvest in 2018, a vintage which sixteenth generation family member Charles Philipponnat likens to 1995, 2009 and 2012.
Since the early 21st century, a quiet revolution has been occurring in Champagne, and the ever-burgeoning demand for artisanal, hand-crafted cuvées continues to flourish. What are the origins of single vineyard champagnes, why are they so popular, and are they a fad or the future?
Charles Philipponnat describes 2017 as a "funny vintage". We visited the house of Philipponnat to taste the vins clairs and find out just what he means. Whilst there, we also sampled an incredible range of champagnes, including new Clos des Goisses 2009.
