Average rating 4.9/5 stars across all Google and external reviews
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Bought directly from Philipponnat's UK agent, the bottles are stored in bond at London City Bond Eton Park, in ideal conditions at a constant 13°C. For same-day deliveries, small quantities are kept in our office cellar, where the temperature is maintained between 11–13°C. We source all our bottles directly from the Maison or their official UK office, eliminating the risk of poor storage. This is crucial, as champagne quality is highly sensitive to heat: temperatures above 18°C accelerate maturity significantly, which compromises quality.
The Philipponnat family, originally from Switzerland, settled in Champagne in the middle of the 16th century. Their history as vine-growers is believed to have begun in 1522, but the house as we know it today wasn't officially founded until 1910. Pierre Philipponnat established his house in a difficult era, with the Champagne Riots, a World War, and the Great Depression incoming. But the house's fortunes changed in 1935, when Pierre acquired what would eventually become one of Champagne's greatest treasures and one of the world's greatest wines - a little-known, steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard called Clos des Goisses, which is still the jewel in the Philipponnat crown today.
In 1997, the house was purchased by Bruno Paillard, becoming part of what is now the Lanson-BCC Group. Although Philipponnat has lost family ownership, it is now back under family management, after Paillard convinced sixteenth generation Charles Philipponnat to come and run the business his grandfather had founded 90 years earlier. Alongside cellar master Thierry Garnier, who has been with Philipponnat since 1993, Charles has been busy establishing a more Pinot-dominant house style, much-loved by connoisseurs. Philipponnat are also celebrated in the trade for printing disgorgement dates on their labels, which they have been doing since 1996. Today, Philipponnat enjoys growing acclaim from both wine critics and the world of haute cuisine.
The jewel in the Champagne Philipponnat crown is a tiny 5.5-hecatre single walled vineyard called Clos des Goisses. Acquired in 1935, Pierre Philipponnat was quick to realise the potential of this unique plot and immediately started producing a single vineyard blend. Originally named Vin des Goisses, it was changed to Clos de Goisses in 1959 and thus the category of Clos champagnes (produced from grapes within walled vineyards) was born. Clos des Goisses is truly iconic: situated by the Marne canal, it is a steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard with an inclination of 35-45 degrees that can only be fully appreciated by visiting. Gois, means a very steep slope. Due to its size, production is limited to a maximum of 55,000 bottles each year.
Weather: Mostly a warm year, 2007 was characterised by unexpected major weather events. A warm spring was followed by a cool summer, although the end of the ripening process was excellent, with harvests taking place in ideal conditions.
Technical Information:
Vineyards: 100% 1er Cru Mareuil-sur-Ay - Single vineyard: Clos des Goisses
Grape Varieties: 65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay
Ageing: 10 years on the lees
Dosage: 4.5 g/l
Drink: Now to 2030
Tasting Note: Deep golden colour with a fine and delicate bubble stream. On the nose a slightly smoky nose with notes of vanilla and aromatic herbs. The palate is has abundance of pears, with hints of mint, ginger and spices. A great vivacity throughout with a long lasting finish.
Almost 500 years ago, the ancestor of Apvril Philipponnat - a soldier of King François - was awarded land in the village of Aÿ as a reward for his bravery during the Battle of Marignan. During the 16th century the Philipponnat family were winegrowers and merchants, famously supplying the court of Louis XIV. However, it took a few centuries for Champagne Philipponnat to be founded - finally being established by Pierre Philipponnat in 1910.
The House now owns seventeen hectares of vines, all situated in the Grand and Premier Cru vineyards of Avenay, Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Traditional methods of harvest such as working the soil through horse ploughing and hoeing by hand are still observed at Champagne Philipponnat today. Their techniques of partial fermentation in oak and partial malolactic fermentation result in a complex and long-lived style of champagne. They were also one of the first producers to print disgorgement dates on the label of their bottles, commencing this practice in the mid-1990s.
Cellar Master: Thierry Garnier
Winery Location: Mareuil-sur-Aÿ | Champagne, France
Champagne Region: Vallée de la Marne
Annual Production (bottles): 700,000
Expert Reviews
17/20
Jancis Robinson MW
“Deep golden straw colour. Real attack on the nose. Lots of impact and tightly laced. Impressive concentration. Not dry! Some honey and apple here. A good bottle … and still quite a way to go.”
94+/100
Ian D'Agata
“A wine of remarkable finesse rather than power, the 2007 Philipponnat Brut Clos de Goisses boasts laser-like acidity and accuracy of flavor that are memorable. One of my favorite Champagnes, Clos de Goisses is usually a powerful bubbly in its youth, but this 2007 is rather politely-styled, almost delicate in fact, in its white fruit and floral aromas and flavors. Best of all, it is still exceptionally young and will last for decades in a proper cellar. ”
93 → 96/100
Essi Avellan MW
“Bright golden colour with evolved depth already upon launch. Overt, ripe nose with earthy-spicy characters coming with orange marmalade, apple and oriental spice complexity. To date, the maturing nose contrasts the tight, restrained palate, and it needs time to open up in the glass. The palate comes with a superb acid line, enhancing the length and contributing a beautiful saline mineral quality to the wine. At first there is structural richness to the mouth-feel but it gains a beautifully focused and lean, dry finish due to the extraordinary acidity and low, 4,25g/l dosage. Fresh, nervy and vivacious despite the winey quality. This is a Clos des Goisses to keep (June 2016 disgorgement tasted). The September 2016 disgorgement tasted in November 2016 was even more convincing reassuring me to raise my points to 93. ”
"The biggest challenge was not making too much!" With an abundance of ripe and healthy grapes, Philipponnat had a successful harvest in 2018, a vintage which sixteenth generation family member Charles Philipponnat likens to 1995, 2009 and 2012.
Since the early 21st century, a quiet revolution has been occurring in Champagne, and the ever-burgeoning demand for artisanal, hand-crafted cuvées continues to flourish. What are the origins of single vineyard champagnes, why are they so popular, and are they a fad or the future?
Charles Philipponnat describes 2017 as a "funny vintage". We visited the house of Philipponnat to taste the vins clairs and find out just what he means. Whilst there, we also sampled an incredible range of champagnes, including new Clos des Goisses 2009.
