The Philipponnat family, originally from Switzerland, settled in Champagne in the middle of the 16th century. Their history as vine-growers is believed to have begun in 1522, but the house as we know it today wasn't officially founded until 1910. Pierre Philipponnat established his house in a difficult era, with the Champagne Riots, a World War, and the Great Depression incoming. But the house's fortunes changed in 1935, when Pierre acquired what would eventually become one of Champagne's greatest treasures and one of the world's greatest wines - a little-known, steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard called Clos des Goisses, which is still the jewel in the Philipponnat crown today.
In 1997, the house was purchased by Bruno Paillard, becoming part of what is now the Lanson-BCC Group. Although Philipponnat has lost family ownership, it is now back under family management, after Paillard convinced sixteenth generation Charles Philipponnat to come and run the business his grandfather had founded 90 years earlier. Alongside cellar master Thierry Garnier, who has been with Philipponnat since 1993, Charles has been busy establishing a more Pinot-dominant house style, much-loved by connoisseurs. Philipponnat are also celebrated in the trade for printing disgorgement dates on their labels, which they have been doing since 1996. Today, Philipponnat enjoys growing acclaim from both wine critics and the world of haute cuisine.
The jewel in the Champagne Philipponnat crown is a tiny 5.5-hectare single walled vineyard called Clos des Goisses. Acquired in 1935, Pierre Philipponnat was quick to realise the potential of this unique plot and immediately started producing a single vineyard blend. Originally named Vin des Goisses, it was changed to Clos de Goisses in 1959 and thus the category of Clos champagnes (produced from grapes within walled vineyards) was born. Clos des Goisses is truly iconic: situated by the Marne canal, it is a steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard with an inclination of 35-45 degrees that can only be fully appreciated by visiting. Gois, means a very steep slope.
Réserve Perpétuelle takes its name from the eponymous Champagne practice of progressively blending the current year’s wines with wines from previous vintages. The idea is to preserve the freshness of the blend through successive renewals without losing any of the complexity acquired through ageing. The new blend brings together all the vintages successively blended since 1946, the year of the first harvest on which the Réserve Perpétuelle cuvée is based. Since 2012, a second part of this wood-aged Réserve Perpétuelle has fed a second, slower-renewing reserve known as Réserve Essentielle. This slow rotation allows to include a larger proportion of older vintages, giving the Réserve Essentielle an exponential concentration of all the successively blended harvests.
Vinification:First press of grapes from the heart of the Champagne region, mainly from the Grands Crus and Premiers Crus of Pinot Noir around Mareuil-sur-Ay. Traditional vinification in vats and wooden barrels, avoiding any premature oxidation. Of the wines from the 2020 harvest, 23% were produced without malolactic fermentation. Aged in casks to instil a sublime depth and patina, our reserve wines are a treasure that the House re-blends and renews each year, incorporating them into the new harvest to make it more complex while preserving its minerality.
The Blend: First press juice of mainly Grand and Premier Crus grapes from the heart of the Champagne wine-growing area. 20 to 30% of reserve wines are aged in wooden barrels using the solera system to incorporate older wines without losing freshness.
Weather: The 2021 Champagne vintage was a challenging year characterized by significant frost damage and a mid-summer battle against mildew, resulting in lower yields but a surprising level of quality in the resulting wines. The final wines are noted for their high acidity, moderate alcohol, and a fresh, bright, and mineral-driven profile, offering a contrast to the warmer, riper vintages that preceded it. The vintage's lower quantity may lead to scarcity for the best examples that successfully navigated the difficult conditions.
Technical Information:
Vineyards: 100% 1er Cru, Mareuil-sur-Ay -
Single vineyard: Clos des Goisses
Grape Varieties: 66% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay & 2% Pinot Meunier
Base vintage: 2021 (44%)
Lees Ageing: 3 years
Reserve wines: 56%
Disgorged: April 2025
Dosage: 8 g/l
Drink: Now to 2040
Tasting Note: Initial nose of vine flowers, lime blossom and lightly toasted fresh bread. On aeration, a nose of red berries, citrus fruit and honey. The palate is beautifully strong, fruity (redcurrant, raspberry, ripe grape) and full-bodied, at once ample and long. The finish brings a hint of biscuit and freshly baked bread.
Almost 500 years ago, the ancestor of Apvril Philipponnat - a soldier of King François - was awarded land in the village of Aÿ as a reward for his bravery during the Battle of Marignan. During the 16th century the Philipponnat family were winegrowers and merchants, famously supplying the court of Louis XIV. However, it took a few centuries for Champagne Philipponnat to be founded - finally being established by Pierre Philipponnat in 1910.
The House now owns seventeen hectares of vines, all situated in the Grand and Premier Cru vineyards of Avenay, Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Traditional methods of harvest such as working the soil through horse ploughing and hoeing by hand are still observed at Champagne Philipponnat today. Their techniques of partial fermentation in oak and partial malolactic fermentation result in a complex and long-lived style of champagne. They were also one of the first producers to print disgorgement dates on the label of their bottles, commencing this practice in the mid-1990s.