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Average Review Score: 4.9
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Average Review Score: 4.9
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Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 1996

Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 1996

Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 1996
Pol Roger was just nineteen when he founded his estate in 1849. Still a family-run enterprise, fifth generation Hubert de Billy is one of the descendants who manage the House today. With 89-hectares of vineyards supplying half of their grape requirements and illustrious premises containing immaculate facilities including pristinely polished stainless-steel tanks. Today they own 92 hectares of vineyards and its cellars in Epernay, just off the Avenue de Champagne run for 7.5 kms, 34 metres below the ground at a constant 9 Celsius.

Remarkably, a small team of less than ten complete everything in the cellar by hand and Pol Roger boast four of the region's remaining fifteen riddlers, who impressively turn over 60,000 bottles a day. Indeed, it is this style and their respect for tradition that initiated Sir Winston Churchill's lifelong attachment to Pol Roger, who famously insisted: "In defeat I need it, in victory I deserve it." Today, their prestige cuvée is named in honour of the great man.

Sir Winston Churchill's relationship with Pol Roger dates back to 1945 when, during a luncheon given by the British ambassador to France after the liberation of Paris, Churchill met the charming and captivating Odette Pol-Roger. A friendship began which, indulged by his wife Clementine, lasted until his death in 1965. Each year on his birthday, Odette would send Churchill a case of vintage champagne. So close was his relationship with the family that upon his death, Pol Roger put black-bordered labels on all of their bottles destined for the UK. In 1975, Pol Roger went one step further and named their prestige cuvée after him, producing it in the robust and mature style that he liked so much. The exact composition of this cuvée is a family secret but it is likely that Pinot Noir dominates 70-80% of the blend with the remainder being Chardonnay. The grapes are all from Grand Cru vineyards which were under vine during Churchill's lifetime.

Weather: The 1996 vintage was a standout year: one of, if not the, best of the last twenty. A warm beginning to June followed by a cooler end provided favourable growing conditions and the weather fluctuation resulted in staggered flowering of the Chardonnay grapes. September was sunny but mild with light scattered showers creating incredible grape maturation with high sugar and acidity levels. This unique sugar/acidity balance combined with small, concentrated berries revealed an aromatic depth rarely seen in Champagne.

Technical Information:
Vineyards: 100% Grand Cru
Grape Varieties: Family Secret | Likely 70-80% Pinot Noir, 20-30% Chardonnay
Ageing: 10 years on the lees
Dosage: 8 g/l
Drink: Now to 2030+

Tasting Note: A clear yellow-gold with a fine stream of bubbles. On the nose initial notes of nuts and butter. On the palate the initial freshness leads onto a full-bodied flavour with heady notes of violet and some light citrus fruits. The finish is superb and very long with a lasting balance of ripe fruits.
Pol Roger was just nineteen when he founded his eponymous estate in 1849. Still a family-run enterprise, fifth generation Hubert de Billy is one of the descendants who manage the House today, ensuring they remain fiercely independent and unrivalled in their reputation for quality. With 89-hectares of vineyards supplying half of their grape requirements and illustrious premises containing immaculate facilities including pristinely polished stainless-steel tanks that reflect shiny tiles and snow-white surfaces, their success is a consequence of incredibly personal attention to detail. In 1955 the family started acquiring vineyards, today they own 92 hectares. Their own grapes are just over 50% of their needs, requiring them to work with many growers from many villages. Its cellars in Epernay are just off the Avenue de Champagne run for 7.5 kms, 34 metres below the ground at a constant 9 Celsius.

Remarkably, a small team of less than ten complete everything in the cellar by hand and Pol Roger boast four of the region's remaining fifteen riddlers, who impressively turn over 60,000 bottles a day. The House use no oak in the winemaking process and their double cold-settling of the grape juice contributes to the pure-fruity style of their champagnes. Indeed, it is this style and their respect for tradition that initiated Sir Winston Churchill's lifelong attachment to Pol Roger, who famously insisted: "In defeat I need it, in victory I deserve it." Today, their prestige cuvée is named in honour of the great man.

Cellar Master: Damien Cambres - March 2018 to present
Winery Location: Épernay | Champagne, France
Champagne Region: Côte des Blancs
Annual Production (bottles): 1,800,000

Chef de Cave History at Champagne Pol Roger:

Damien Cambres - March 2018 to present - Damien Cambres took over as Cellar Master on Monday April 2nd 2018, at forty-three he succeeds Dominique Petit who retires after 19 years at Champagne Pol Roger. Damien was born in Châlons-en-Champagne and completed the national diploma in oenology. Before joining Pol Roger he spent 20 years in champagnes co-operative business, 1997 to 2012, with Nicolas Feuillatte, before joining Gouttes d’Or Union as production manager then general manager, until 2017 when he joined Pol Roger as Director of Production in April 2017. For the next 12 months he worked with his predecessor Dominique Petit understanding the know-how and philosophy of the family-owned company.

Dominique Petit - Spring 1999 & retired in March 2018 Dominique studied oenology for seven years; Beaune Wine College in 1970 to 1971, Wine College of Avize from 1971 to 1973 and finally at the Faculty of Science in Reims from 1973 to 1977. His first vintage of his professional career was 1979, he comments "Maturity was spectacular with a purity that was extraordinarily beautiful. The wines were all without exception wonderful, and the few remaining examples in the cellars are still the same." This first role was at Champagne Krug, where he stayed for 20 years, part of the winemaking team and becoming Director of Production. Much of early years with Champagne Pol Roger, from 2001 to 2013 he oversaw a major refurbishment of the winery, enlarging the cellar space for settling, blending and vinification. In addition he introduced smaller tanks from 20 hl to 160 h/l , allowing him to keep smaller parcels of the best wines separate for the vintage and Churchill cuvée.

James Coffinet - 1985 to Spring 1999 - Recruited by Christian de Billy from Billecart-Salmon where he was Cellar Master. With Christian's oversight, James introduced double débourbage, longer periods of cold settling the must, twice for between 24-48 hours at 6 Celsius followed by a cooler fermentation. These were practices borrowed from the brewing industry and used at Champagne Billecart-Salmon where he previously worked. Coffinet was considered one of the best winemakers of his generation.
Chef de Cave History at Champagne Pol Roger:

Damien Cambres - March 2018 to present - Damien Cambres took over as Cellar Master on Monday April 2nd 2018, at forty-three he succeeds Dominique Petit who retires after 19 years at Champagne Pol Roger. Damien was born in Châlons-en-Champagne and completed the national diploma in oenology. Before joining Pol Roger he spent 20 years in champagnes co-operative business, 1997 to 2012, with Nicolas Feuillatte, before joining Gouttes d’Or Union as production manager then general manager, until 2017 when he joined Pol Roger as Director of Production in April 2017. For the next 12 months he worked with his predecessor Dominique Petit understanding the know-how and philosophy of the family-owned company.

Dominique Petit - Spring 1999 & retired in March 2018 Dominique studied oenology for seven years; Beaune Wine College in 1970 to 1971, Wine College of Avize from 1971 to 1973 and finally at the Faculty of Science in Reims from 1973 to 1977. His first vintage of his professional career was 1979, he comments "Maturity was spectacular with a purity that was extraordinarily beautiful. The wines were all without exception wonderful, and the few remaining examples in the cellars are still the same." This first role was at Champagne Krug, where he stayed for 20 years, part of the winemaking team and becoming Director of Production. Much of early years with Champagne Pol Roger, from 2001 to 2013 he oversaw a major refurbishment of the winery, enlarging the cellar space for settling, blending and vinification. In addition he introduced smaller tanks from 20 hl to 160 h/l , allowing him to keep smaller parcels of the best wines separate for the vintage and Churchill cuvée.

James Coffinet - 1985 to Spring 1999 - Recruited by Christian de Billy from Billecart-Salmon where he was Cellar Master. With Christian's oversight, James introduced double débourbage, longer periods of cold settling the must, twice for between 24-48 hours at 6 Celsius followed by a cooler fermentation. These were practices borrowed from the brewing industry and used at Champagne Billecart-Salmon where he previously worked. Coffinet was considered one of the best winemakers of his generation.

Expert Reviews

17.5/20
Jancis Robinson MW
“The tenth vintage of Pol's prestige cuvée (1975 was the first).
Very sturdy, powerful and dry. Savoury again and with the green streak of this high-acid vintage, which Pol assessed as having 'the hallmarks of a Churchill vintage. Early comparisons were drawn with 1955.' More youthful than the 1999.”
95+/100
William Kelley
“The most tightly wound, compact wine in this vertical tasting was also, paradoxically, the oldest, but that won't surprise readers who know the 1996 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. Opening in the glass with notes of iodine, confit orchard fruit, tangerine, smoke and buttered toast, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and tensile, with a seamless, beautifully balanced profile and a classy, somewhat more reserved, intellectual profile than the younger vintages that followed it. This serious but harmonious 1996 will still improve with additional cellaring.”
18/20
Julia Harding MW
“From a Berry Bros private client. Disgorged 2007. Tasted blind. Deeper gold than the 2004 in magnum. Mousse is still fresh but not as lively as the 2004. High acid. 1996 bottle? Very tight even though it has quite a bit of development and richness and some bruised apple on the nose – more oxidative. But has great length and intensity. I like the combination of complexity and crisp acidity. Demonstrative rather than elegant but needs drinking in the next few years. ”
95/100
Antonio Galloni
“Pol Roger’s 1996 Winston Churchill is fabulous. One of the most expressive, complete 1996s today, the Winston Churchill is in a great spot. Butter, spice, almond and lemon oil notes meld together effortlessly in the glass. In 1996, the Winston Churchill is a clear overachiever. Best of all, it remains reasonably priced vis-à-vis its peers.”

News Articles

  1. Churchill Connection: Pol Roger
    Churchill Connection: Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill's relationship with Pol Roger dates back to 1945 when a friendship began between Churchill and Odette Pol-Roger..
  2. Pol Roger: '02, '04, '06, '08, who do we appreciate?
    Pol Roger: '02, '04, '06, '08, who do we appreciate? To celebrate the release of Pol Roger Brut Vintage 2008, we put it to the test in a blind vertical tasting of the last four vintages of Pol: 2002, 2004, 2006 and 2008. We also threw in the non-vintage for good measure.

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