September 16, 2025
A trip to the Champagne region wouldn’t be complete without a visit to some grower champagne houses. Here are some of our recommendations. Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier d'OR 2014
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Vilmart & Cie is a grower champagne and family home that originated in 1890 by Désiré Vilmart and ever since, sons and sons-in-law have followed, always with this love of the profession, allowing this small domain to become what it is today in the heart of the Montagne de Reims a few kilometres south of Reims in the village Rilly la Montagne. Laurent Champs, 5th generation family member and Chef de Cave of Vilmart is one of Champagne’s unsung heroes, wine critic Tom Stevenson described Vilmart as “the greatest grower Champagne I know.” There are 11 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards in Rilly-la-Montagne which are planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The oldest vines are reserved for the Coeur de Cuvée and Blanc de Blancs champagnes. They have been farming biodynamically since 1989 and today are certified Viticulture Durable, Ampélos, and Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) meaning farming is free of synthetic chemicals. The fermentations are entirely in oak, giving them a richness and complexity that really builds texture an unmistakably Vilmart character.
Another characteristic of Vilmart champagnes is the absence of malolactic fermentation. This preserves freshness, tautness and subtlety, as well as the pronounced identity of the aromas. After 10 months of vinification and resting on the lees in wooden barrels, the wines are bottled and left to age in the estate’s chalk cellars: three to four years for non-vintage champagnes, and five to eight years for vintages.
Weather: 2014 was characterised by mild temperatures and frequent rainfall and a few weeks of high temperatures, a very solid vintage with good ripeness and acidity. Flowering began in June and summer was a combination of dry, wet and cold spells. Some regions saw some disease and Meunier in the Marne Valley didn’t have a great year and some of the Pinot Noir with its thinner skin made it more difficult for the red grapes. Harvest took place from 8th to 20th September. A year where it was necessary to select the red grapes carefully to maintain high quality. In general Chardonnay is the star of the vintage.
Technical Information:
Vineyards: 100% Premier Cru | Rilly la Montagne in the heart of the Montagne de Reims
Grape Varieties: 80% Chardonnay & 20% Pinot Noir from 50 year old vines
Disgorged: June 2018
Ageing process: Ten months into large oak casks
Lees Ageing: 3 Years
Winemaker: Laurent Champs
Dosage: 7 g/l
Malolactic Fermentation: 0%
Tasting Note: The 2014 Grand Cellier d’Or is stellar. Bright, focused and articulate, the 2014 speaks with class and pedigree to burn. I especially admire the wine’s balance. Hints of orange peel, spice, vanillin and a hint of chamomile lend nuance in a creamy, wonderfully articulate Champagne. The balance of energy and textural richness is compelling. - Tasted by Antonio Galloni
Another characteristic of Vilmart champagnes is the absence of malolactic fermentation. This preserves freshness, tautness and subtlety, as well as the pronounced identity of the aromas. After 10 months of vinification and resting on the lees in wooden barrels, the wines are bottled and left to age in the estate’s chalk cellars: three to four years for non-vintage champagnes, and five to eight years for vintages.
Weather: 2014 was characterised by mild temperatures and frequent rainfall and a few weeks of high temperatures, a very solid vintage with good ripeness and acidity. Flowering began in June and summer was a combination of dry, wet and cold spells. Some regions saw some disease and Meunier in the Marne Valley didn’t have a great year and some of the Pinot Noir with its thinner skin made it more difficult for the red grapes. Harvest took place from 8th to 20th September. A year where it was necessary to select the red grapes carefully to maintain high quality. In general Chardonnay is the star of the vintage.
Technical Information:
Vineyards: 100% Premier Cru | Rilly la Montagne in the heart of the Montagne de Reims
Grape Varieties: 80% Chardonnay & 20% Pinot Noir from 50 year old vines
Disgorged: June 2018
Ageing process: Ten months into large oak casks
Lees Ageing: 3 Years
Winemaker: Laurent Champs
Dosage: 7 g/l
Malolactic Fermentation: 0%
Tasting Note: The 2014 Grand Cellier d’Or is stellar. Bright, focused and articulate, the 2014 speaks with class and pedigree to burn. I especially admire the wine’s balance. Hints of orange peel, spice, vanillin and a hint of chamomile lend nuance in a creamy, wonderfully articulate Champagne. The balance of energy and textural richness is compelling. - Tasted by Antonio Galloni
