92/100
William Kelley
“From the commune of Tauxières and the 2017 vintage, Bollinger's new NV Brut Blanc de Noirs PN TX17 exhibits aromas of crisp pear, orange zest and wet stones mingled with subtle hints of warm bread and dried fruits. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and fleshy, with tangy acids and impressive ripeness for the vintage, it concludes with an elegantly mordant finish. This doesn't strike me as a year built to make old bones, but it should nonetheless enjoy over a decade's evolution.”
94/100
Anne Krebiehl MW
“A tender nose shows of a sense of fresh, sweet cream and crushed berry – unusually with a hint of blueberry, followed by Red Delicious apple and a beautifully lifted and aromatic note of tangerine. The palate is sinuous and elegant, there is wonderful depth of fruit and that lovely signature creaminess of Bollinger expressed in superfine foam. There is subtle length that only emphasises the depth of flavour. Very elegant, very expressive, as vivid, energetic and vibrant as the previous releases under this series. Lovely. ”
93/100
Essi Avellan MW
“On the stylish nose, spicy, woody and hazelnut tones meet pristine Pinot Noir fruitiness. The challenging 2017 harvest is the base here, and Bollinger found, in Tauxières, the fruit quality and profile to craft this edition of its pop-up cuvée. Coming with a fine yeasty notion and well protected from oxidation, the fruitiness really shines loud and bright, supported by a complexity brought about by the reserve wines. The palate carries the lightness and freshness of the cool year, and it all ends on a brisk, dry note. This is a delightfully different and beautifully delicate wine from Bollinger. Disgorged 2/22; dosage 4g/l”
17/20
Jancis Robinson MW
“A deep honey colour for a champagne. Very seductive nose with considerable apparent evolution on it. Much more youthful on the palate than the nose suggests and some dried apple-skin notes on the bone-dry, impressively persistent finish. Very much in the house style. A worthy successor to previous cuvées of this wine, with its own personality.
Drink 2022–2032”
92 → 94/100
Richard Juhlin
“The wine is almost completely dominated by the extremely exciting and rare Tauxières Premier Cru, which is one of two villages classified 99% on the Grand Cru scale. Despite an impressive vineyard area of 237 hectares, it is extremely rare to come across champagnes dominated by this fantastic Cru. A cooler microclimate and a thinner soil layer with even more compact chalk than sunny Bouzy make the wines from here lighter and more elegant than Bouzy but stronger than Verzenay which is also part of this exciting Blanc de Noirs with predominantly base from 2017. Here is also a small splash of Avenay to give a little buttery roundness to the cuvée with its low dosage of 4 grams. The reserve wines that always come from magnum bottles under low pressure make up 48% from three vintages in 2016, 2009 and 2006. In total, half of the wine is made in oak barrels and the other half in steel tanks. The result is very beautiful and personal. The scent has features of lead pencil, juniper and freshly lacquered boat together with more classic coffee notes, rose petals, apricot and peach. The taste is vivid and multifaceted with a lively precision, lighter fruit aromas than you normally find in Bollinger's wines. Even cassis is one of the more unexpected aromas in this finely tuned complex symphony. Very impressive and exciting champagne that really makes me want to taste more and that I will look out for to my private cellar.”
18/20
Nick Baker TFB Founder
“PN TX17 100% PN Base 2017 4 g/l Oldest Reserve 2006 D: Jan 2022
The partial barrel fermentation lends a toasty spice note, supported by masses of fruit, peach, grapefruit richness, blueberry, cranberry, dark cherry and hints of blackberry. Delicious dark fruit build on the palate, real richness to the fruit that’s super pure and the impact of the chalk is obvious on the palate, it adds minerality/chalk charm together with acidity make this super fresh with that great saline finish. Going back you really see the array of “crunchy fruit” and the low dosage sits really well. Barrel fermentation of 50% of the wines has created a great balance of oak impact and the 49% reserve wines back to 2006 add incredible depth. Bollinger’s own vineyards provide 80% of the fruit.”
93/100
Jeb Dunnuck
“As with the PN VZ16, the NV Champagne Blanc de Noirs PN TX17 Brut was fermented half in barrels and half in stainless steel. It is also 100% Pinot Noir, mostly from the village of Tauxières, predominantly from 2017, with reserve wines contributing to the blend. Floral on the nose, with yellow orchard fruit and baked bread, it is ripe but more linear in its approach and follow through. It’s a very pretty wine to drink. Best after 2022.”
93/100
Alison Napjus
“A finely detailed Champagne, with pointillist bubbles softly bursting on the palate, carrying a delicate, layered range of ripe raspberry and yellow peach, candied ginger and crystalized honey, chopped nuts and fleur de sel. Minerally chalk and saline accents drive the finish.”
