“Deutz's newly released 2010 Brut Millésimé Amour de Deutz is very pretty, wafting from the glass with scents of citrus zest, white flowers, brioche and hazelnuts. Medium-bodied, pillowy and incisive, with a chiseled core of fruit, racy acids and a pinpoint mousse, it's a bright, fine-boned wine that represents a fine success in a rather challenging vintage.”

“Classy wine filled with scents of citrus and brioche and hints of woodsmoke. The palate brings impressive soft bubbles and notes of citrus, praline and cream. Long, breezy and vivid finish with a persistent prickle of mousse. Kudos!”

“Wonderfully pure and fresh – delights that as in all truly great Champagnes, it should never lose, just acquiring an extra patina of vinosity till 2030…without doubt a great wine and nowadays, maybe, the leader in the non-oaked school of Champagne making. A real treat.”

“Lively and fresh and crisp without any obvious oak influence. Slightly scratchy in texture but very refreshing. Not tightly knit but honest and sincere, and certainly very Mesnil.”

“A confident copper blush and an immediately seductive nose of soft spice, red currants and sweet almond. The blend here is dominated by the Pinots, with 50% Noir and 40% Meunier leaving only a whisper of elegant Chardonnay. The three contributory vintages in question are 2013, 2014 and 2015, youthful therefore, yet the wine does not lack for depth and complexity. A beguiling almost savoury depth is immediately evident, courtesy in no small measure to the quality of the red wine, 15% added as Pinot Noir from exceptionally old vines in the village of Ludes. Old vines and a young wine; wisdom, depth and youthful energy in this instance make up a winning combination”

“The Armand de Brignac NV Brut Rosé is an intense salmon colored blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier and 10% Chardonnay sourced in the Montage de Reims, Côte des Blancs and Valée de la Marne and comprises the vintages of 2009, 2010 and 2012. The bouquet is intensely fruity yet clear, fine and well-defined. Full-bodied, round, vinous and elegant on the palate, this cuvée reveals a grippy mineral freshness and lingering structure. Persistent finish. Powerful yet pure. The cooler the better.”

“Disgorged with two grams per liter dosage, Billecart-Salmon's 2009 Extra Brut Vintage is more giving and demonstrative than its 2008 counterpart, offering up inviting aromas of crisp stone fruit, yellow apple, brioche, honeycomb and warm pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a pillowy mousse and a generous core of fruit girdled by bright acids, it's seamless and complete. Indeed, such is its charm and persistence that I tend to prefer it, at least for now, to the 2008.”

“The 2009 Vintage is another stellar wine in this range from Billecart-Salmon. This is the first time the Vintage includes Meunier in the blend. That approach has worked out so well here. Resonant and generous, the 2009 is so expressive today. The low dosage of two grams per liter is expertly judged. The 2009 is rich, but not heavy, while offering all of the natural generosity of the year.”

“Pure and limpid but perhaps without the depth of a great champagne. Very much on the dry side. For a wine from the luscious 2009 vintage this is quite taut and demanding!”

“Disgorged with two grams per liter dosage, Billecart-Salmon's 2009 Extra Brut Vintage is more giving and demonstrative than its 2008 counterpart, offering up inviting aromas of crisp stone fruit, yellow apple, brioche, honeycomb and warm pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a pillowy mousse and a generous core of fruit girdled by bright acids, it's seamless and complete. Indeed, such is its charm and persistence that I tend to prefer it, at least for now, to the 2008.”

“The 2009 Vintage is another stellar wine in this range from Billecart-Salmon. This is the first time the Vintage includes Meunier in the blend. That approach has worked out so well here. Resonant and generous, the 2009 is so expressive today. The low dosage of two grams per liter is expertly judged. The 2009 is rich, but not heavy, while offering all of the natural generosity of the year.”

“Pure and limpid but perhaps without the depth of a great champagne. Very much on the dry side. For a wine from the luscious 2009 vintage this is quite taut and demanding!”

“ This new wine was made to ‘capture the essence of Billecart-Salmon', according to seventh generation owner Mathieu Roland-Billecart. From 92% Pinot Noir, 4% Chardonnay and 4% Pinot Meunier, this is a blend of eight grands crus from the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, including the 1ha Pinot Noir vineyard of Le Clos St-Hilaire in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Exceptional reserve wines from 2000, 2003, 2008 and 2012 were vinified half in steel and half in old oak casks, with a dosage of 4.5g/l, making it an extra brut style. It has a hugely expressive nose of red apple, nougat and citrus, with the hallmark ‘old rose’ fragrance from Clos St-Hilaire. There's an elegant mousse with very fine, fast-streaming bubbles and powerful, juicy flavours of baking spices, praline, and tart apples. A smoky mineral note and bright acidity offer real refreshment through the long finish, and while drinking beautifully now, it has the structure to last and will improve with age. To mark the year of the house’s founding, just 1,818 magnums were made, along with 18 Jeroboams. Drinking Window 2018-2035.”

“Mesnil, Avize, Cramant, Chouilly. No oak fermentation. Based on 2009 and a smaller proportion of reserve wines than the 45% in the Brut Réserve. RS 6 g/l. Feuille morte glass colour.
Bright, intense fruit on the nose. Broad, toasty and expansive. Very long. Elegant. Lots to chew on.”

“Based on the 2015 vintage and dominated this year by Mesnil sur Oger, Billecart's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru was disgorged in July 2021 with seven grams per liter dosage. Exhibiting aromas of citrus oil, tart stone fruit, freshly baked bread and white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and layered, its sweet core of fruit framed by racy acids and chalky structure.”

“A delicate, fruity blanc de blancs with a straightforward floral-lemony-mineral character and stylish toasty edge. A classic mix from the celebrated Grand Cru villages of Chouilly, Cramant, Oger and Le Mesnil aged on the lees for five years with 35 percent reserve wines bringing even further richness. Beautifully creamy, energetic mousse and a fresh, long, fruity length.”

“Light and zesty with tobacco notes. Fresh and lively. Again, a slightly fast fade.”

“There's a pure white fruitiness to the coolly reserved nose here: lemon, yellow apple and cream. Still, the most impressive feature is the fine toastiness and mineral notion present on both nose and palate. There is a really stylish lightness to the wine, despite a great fruit intensity. It feels focused, packed with fruit, and blessed with pristine fruit quality; this is no surprise, since the grapes originate from four grands crus of the Côte des Blancs: Avize, Cramant, Chouilly and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Disgorged 7/21; dosage 8g/l”

“This pale-pink wine is stylish, crisp and relatively dry. Full of wild strawberry and citrus, it is lively, bright and lightly perfumed. The texture shows a touch of tannin as well as delicate minerality. Drink this well-balanced wine now.”

“Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's new NV Brut Rosé incorporates 40% reserve wines and some 6% still red wine. Bursting with scents of sweet red berries, peonies, stone fruits, white cherries, freshly baked bread and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and charming, with a seamless and enveloping core of fruit and a lively, fine-boned profile.”

“(45% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 25% Pinot Meunier; 8 g/l dosage; L206454 17741): Pale orange. High-pitched red berry, orange zest and jasmine aromas, with suave mineral and smoky lees notes adding complexity. Spicy and precise on the palate, showing very good punch to its strawberry and bitter cherry flavors. Opens up smoothly with air and picks up a bitter rhubarb quality that lingers onto the long, tightly focused finish. This bottling showed more brawny character than many past renditions of this cuvée, but with no lack of vivacity.”

“Tasted blind. Very pale greyish salmon. Rich rose-petal aroma with quite a bit of voluptuous sweetness. Crisp acidity. Brisk but satisfying. Slightly astringent end.
Drink 2018-2024”

“Created in the 1960s, an era when rosés were not en vogue, this cuvée was envisaged 'not to look or taste too much like a rosé'. With its genius recipe, today this wine belongs among Champagne's most emblematic rosés. It comes with a hallmark delicate peachy colour and a pristine nose of delicious peach fruit. Its further charms include a whiff of roses, soft spiciness, apple compote, pencil shavings and apricot marmalade. The ethereal lightness of the palate suits the delicacy of the whole. Silky, dynamic and vibrantly fruity, it all comes together in a finish of perfect purity and suitably dry deliciousness. Disgorged 1/22; dosage 9g/l”

“Very pale onion skin, and aroms that only whisper at red fruit. Spicy, delicate, bright. (RH)”

“Incorporating fully 10% still red wine, Billecart's 2009 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon is showing beautifully, delivering fragrant aromas of plums, stone fruits, petals, sweet spices and marzipan. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegant, it's seamless and pillowy, with bright acids and a pure, precise profile, concluding with a bright, saline finish. In 2009, it was vinified entirely in stainless steel.”

“A wonderfully open nose immediately presents ripe red currant framed by notions as various as fresh gingerbread, iron oxide, berry sherbet, orange peel, candied tangerine and caramel: richness and freshness united. The palate is smooth with fine, vivid effervescence that propels the wine’s inherent freshness continually to the surface, both countering and complementing a certain roundness, a certain gourmandise that shimmers with red fruit, ripe, aromatic citrus and stony spice. A most gastronomic Champagne that will evolve beautifully.”

“Copper-orange color with aromas of grapefruit pith, cherry stones, dried roses, white pepper, pastries, walnuts and oyster shells. Refined and elegant with pretty, dried red and citrus fruit, layered with subtle spice and toast. Fine bubbles. Dry. 55% pinot noir from Mareuil-sur-Ay and Ay, and 45% Grand Cru chardonnay from Cote des Blancs, with 10% of pinot noir red wine. Dosage 7g/L. Disgorged in July 2021. Drink or hold.”

“An elegant rosé Champagne that seamlessly knits juicy acidity and fine-grained texture with a subtle, smoke-laced underpinning and a delicate mesh of wild strawberry, kirsch, mandarin orange peel and toasted brioche flavors. Harmonious, with an open-knit, spiced finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged July 2021. Drink now through 2029.”

“Disgorged in November 2020 with two grams per liter dosage, Billecart-Salmon's newly released 2006 Brut Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is showing well, unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, mirabelle plum, dried fruits, walnuts, bee pollen and spices. Full-bodied, layered and vinous, it's a concentrated, muscular young wine, allying maturing flavors with broad structural shoulders and racy acids and concluding with a long, resonant and slightly mordant finish. From a parcel planted in 1964 and vinified entirely in oak, this is a powerful Champagne of considerable presence that needs some more time on cork to unwind and round out.”

“An incredibly fragrant nose shines with ripe, red-cheeked Mirabelle plum and even has an overtone of Kirsch. The palate is creamy and has a wonderful spine of freshness that only helps to underscore the generosity and roundness. The mousse is superfine, the autolysis is restrained yet profound, there is a textured mid-palate of concentrated red apple fruit with an edge of candlewax and a delicious reverberation of pepper. Exquisite.”

“In 1995, Billecart-Salmon joined the club of single-vineyard Champagne producers and went for a big, bold and super-ripe blanc de noirs style from the family clos in their home village Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, planted with Pinot Noir in 1964. Deep, lemon-gold colour. The sweet, ripely fruity nose comes with obvious oaky whiffs, with spice, vanilla and even coconut. Sun-kissed, for sure, but the super-ripe profile fits the generously oaky style. Full-on, rich and round, the palate-filling volume of this wine is cut by its brisk acidity. On the palate, the velvety tropical sumptuousness turns into something more earthy-mineral towards the almost bone-dry finish. Disgorged 11/20; dosage 2g/l”

“Rich nose, yeasty and so alive. The oak shows even more as the wine opens up, giving a cedar spice. Such underlying depth and richness with such a surprising mineral and acidic backbone with a verbena note, mandarin – the most citric of the lot. There is a subtler nuttiness here that is almost creamy, like a Belgian chocolate, almost oily on the finish yet with such direction.”

“The 2007 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François continues to show beautifully, wafting from the glass with scents of sweet orchard fruit, citrus oil, clear honey, white flowers, buttery pastry and warm biscuits. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and incisive, with racy acids, a vibrant core of fruit and a pillowy, elegant profile, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish.”

“This is a laser-guided Champagne with fabulous energy and intensity with a tight palate, racy acidity and super fine phenolics. It goes on and on. Fine bubbles. Light pine and praline character. One for the cellar. 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay. Disgorged 19 July, 2020. Wonderful now, but needs time to come together. Better from 2024 onwards.”

“The pale gold colour shows some evolution, while the intensely fruity nose comes across more red-fruit-dominant, with apple and apricot meeting pastry and spicy tones. Fruity power continues on the concentrated palate of ripe peach. The Chardonnay gets more of a foothold on the palate, which shows feisty acidity and great drive. Time in oak for a fraction of the blend has brought about not only depth but also a minor oxidative note. Long, silky and appropriately dosed finish. Disgorged 11/20; dosage 6g/l”

“The 2007 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart is positively stellar. Elegant, polished and sophisticated, the 2007 dazzles with effusive aromatics and gorgeous balance. It's not an obvious wine, though, but rather a Champagne built for long, patient cellaring. The 2007 is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay taken from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Ambonnay, Verzenay and Verzy for the Pinots and Chouilly, Avize, Cramant and Mesnil for the Chardonnays. In other words, as good as it gets for villages. The wine was done mostly in tank with about 15% of the lots vinified in oak. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. ”

“Disgorged with six grams per liter dosage, the 2007 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François is showing very nicely, offering up aromas of fresh bread, citrus oil, crisp yellow orchard fruit, white flowers, verbena, macadamia nut and hints of biscuity complexity to come. Full-bodied, chiseled but fleshy, its vinous core of fruit cloaks the vintage's brisk acids to achieve real plenitude in a year that's sometimes rather tautly austere. Long and penetrating and complemented by a pretty pinpoint mousse, this is a real success.”

“Pinot noir assumes a glorious lead in a magnificent display of red berry and cherry fruits, seamlessly fused to the bright lemon and pink grapefruit eut of magnificent chardonnay acidity”

“Deeper gold than the 2006. Very dense and firm with lots of further ageing potential.”

“100% grand and premier cru vineyards. Pinot Noir (60%) from Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne. Chardonnay (40%) from Côte des Blancs. Disgorged spring 2017. Dosage 4 g/l.
Tasted blind. The deepest colour of all these wines. Mid straw and persistent bead. Not particularly intense on the nose initially; needed time to open up. Quite noticeable autolysis. Bone dry. Some evidence of oak? Absolutely not a shred of simple fruit here – almost a metallic hint on the end but great, deep undertow. Very complex and uncompromising. Dry and distinctive.
Drink 2016-2030”

“Previous vintage was 1999, which has only just sold out. Disgorged early 2016. Needs a year in bottle prior to shipment. 12-15% oak barrels. This was decanted in the famous Billecart-Salmon decanter to age this ‘baby’ a bit.
Deep gold. And with real presence. Real grip and savour. Serious stuff. A certain richness underneath. Described by Antoine Billecart as ‘still a baby’. Rich start and not that frothy. Dense and savoury. Intellectual wine! Broad and grippy.”

“Very pale. Sophisticated, very sleek, well balanced nose. A remarkably youthful 2002. Clean, brisk chalky palate with a finish that is just slightly sudden. Quite exciting. This still has quite a bit to give.”

“A mesmerizing, thrilling Champagne, the 2002 Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart is a great example of the vintage at its best. Silky and racy on the palate, yet a bit more restrained than many wines of the year, the Nicolas François Billecart remains vivid and remarkably nuanced. Brioche. apricot jam, wild flowers and honey are some of the many notes that blossom as the Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart shows off its voluptuous personality. The 2002 is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay.”

“The Pinot feels particularly prominent in this vintage. Such a deep, rich, powerful red fruit nose with evolving characters and confectionary, nutty and perfumy tones. Not completely free of bruised notes but beautifully spicy and mellowing. Long-lasting and strong but truly refined palate.”

“The NV Extra-Brut Meunier is a 100% Pinot Meunier in Billecart's new Les Rendez-vous line taken from vineyards in Festigny, Vrigny and Le Venteuil. This first release is based on the 2014 vintage, with 33% reserve wines that spent 52 months on its lees. Creamy, layered and exquisitely beautiful, the No. 1 captures all of the savory and textured qualities of Meunier. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter.”

“Billecart’s first 100% Meunier comes from Leuvrigny, Festigny and Venteuil in the Vallée de la Marne. Lemon colour with golden tones. Clean and brightly fruity nose showing beautiful floral tones. Fermented in stainless stee only, the bouquet is appetisingl: jasmin, orangeblossom, lime and grapefruit. Ripe but cool and crisp fruitiness. The overt palate is fresh but comes with lovely rounded textural feel to it. The salivatingly mineral palate finishes with a pure and dry (4,5g/l dosage), fruity aftertaste. A lovely benchmark Meunier with both varietal typicity and deliciousness. ”

“Ethereal, delicate nose with the fruitiness of Meunier. And it's pretty delicate on the palate too. I wouldn't serve this with food. This is not too austere for an Extra Brut. It's really quite fruity and you wouldn't believe the dosage was so low. The impact is a bit like a feather stroking the palate. But I don't think there is much point in ageing this.”

“Real breadth of interesting autolysis on the nose. The Pinot Meunier perhaps shows itself in a slight lack of deep-flavoured follow-through but it really is lovely on the nose. Bone dry but not austere. An interesting bottle of very well-made champagne with sufficient depth.
Drink 2022–2025”

“Then it was time for the good James to enjoy one of the most magnificent champagnes in the 25th Bond film. An exclusive "Limited Edition" of the most delicious performance imaginable, where one in the sober text on the elegant bottle can discern the film titles in which Bond indulged in the Aÿ based house's unique elixir of life. The decision, in the usually somewhat thin vintage of 2011, to use Pinot Noir exclusively from the home village of Aÿ with its mighty fruit is nothing short of brilliant. As you might know, Bollinger's ungrafted rarity Vieilles Vignes Françaises comes from Aÿ. I have long argued that the greatness of the wine has less to do with the vines being pre-phylloxera than that they come from Aÿ's best locations aged in Bollinger's old oak barrels. This Bond champagne shows that I was right since the similarities are striking. Perhaps both we and James should wait about ten years until the wine has reached its peak and completely integrated its enormous fruit with the notes from the barrels, but the wine is already magnificent with its deep ripe aroma of Gravenstein apples backed by fresh wooden notes from a newly installed Finnish sauna decorated with fresh birch twigs. Very typical of the Producer and powerful, perhaps more as an energizing solo piece for cello than as a harmonious symphony with its direct and uncompromising power.”

“An intriguing combination of a sunny year’s forward fruitiness and late September harvest’s freshness. These characters get further amplified by the high percentage of Chardonnay and important share of cooler profile Verzenay Pinot Noir in the blend. On the nose ripe peach, candied apple and vanilla blend in beautifully with delicate floral and lemony notes as well as mineral iodine whiffs. The gentle oaky note stylishly stays in the background. There is supple volume on the lacey-textured palate, but this wine plays much less on concentration and weight than what we are used to with La Grande Année. Instead its finest feature is the salivating acidity and sensation of minerality that carries the wine until the long, palate-cleansing finish. Already open and pleasurable on the nose, but the palate stands firm with mineral restraint promising longevity. Perfectly dosed at 8g/l. Note for a bottle disgorged in April 2021.”

“The 2014 La Grande Année is stunning. In fact, it is one of the best recent editions I can remember tasting. What comes through most is the wine’s sizzling energy and tension, qualities that aren’t often associated with Bollinger, where the Champagnes tend to show more breadth and volume. In 2014, readers will find a Grande Année built on linear intensity and drive. The 2014 is a blend taken from 19 villages, 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay instead of the more typical 70/30 mix. For the second time in two decades (the first was 2007), Verzenay takes the lead in the Pinots over Aÿ, more or less an inverse from the norm. Verzenay, a north-facing village in the Montagne de Reims that saw less rain than Aÿ and most of the Vallée de la Marne, yields Pinots of energy more than volume. That, married with Chardonnays mostly from the Côtes des Blancs (predominantly Chouilly, Vertus, Oiry and Cramant), results in a truly magical Grande Année that will delight Champagne fans for several decades. I can’t recommend the 2014 highly enough. It’s a total knock-out. Disgorged: April, 2021. Dosage: 8 grams per liter.
”

“Offering up complex aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, confit citrus, frangipane, walnuts, dried white flowers and subtle hints of iodine, Bollinger's 2014 Brut La Grande Année is medium to full-bodied, pillowy and vinous, with an elegantly fleshy core of fruit that's underpinned by racy acids and complemented by a pretty pinpoint mousse. Concluding with a long, chalky finish, this is a charming but precise Grande Année that's more giving and demonstrative than its immediate predecessor, the 2012, but which attains a very similar level of quality in a more challenging vintage—testimony to the serious viticulture that underpins Bollinger's contemporary excellence.”

“I belong to the group of people that believes that Bollinger above all shows its greatness in lighter and more elegant vintages as the inherent Pinot-driven masculine power they possess is always sufficient. In the grand generous vintages, one must fight hard to hold back the rumbling force and maintain freshness and sublime details. 2014 is a textbook example in the lighter category. Many champagnes from 2014 are simply too light, vague, and floral in nature, but this does not apply in any way to Bollinger La Grande Année. Here, they have beautifully navigated their way between the grains of the vintage and instead focused on its merits. The champagne is thus clearer and more elegant with a higher proportion of Chardonnay from Chouilly and Oiry than usual to include and embrace the citrusy and floral sides. The extremely intense aroma is otherwise dominated by a marked air of sea breezes, sea urchins, oyster shells, iodine and gunpowder smoke originating from Verzenay. There is also a light note of hazelnut and leather from Aÿ. The combination of these pillars and all complementary villages also gives a delicate fruit with hints of orange citrus, peach, and Mirabelle plum. The aromas come again in the fine and medium-bodied taste with an added note of the finest vanilla and fresh cep in olive oil. Overall, this is an extremely beautiful and complex Bollinger on the finer and more elegant half of the whole. I love how you find new little details in a harmonious simplicity with each new sip. Fascinating and beautiful already, grand as R.D. in 10 years or more and without a doubt one of the vintage's rare hits.”

“The 2012 marks the second La Grande Année vintage bottled in the new bottle shape, whose narrow neck is to induce something similar to the magnum effect. Upon launch, the 2012 has 10 months of post-disgorgement time and the wine is showing elegantly restrained and youthful. On the nose the old-oak character is less prominent than in most other Bollinger vintages and the deliberate oxidation is well under control and in a supporting role. The fine, cool and pure fruitiness is at the fore with lovely spicy and nutty notes supporting. Lemony fruitiness with yellow apple and ripe apricot as well as some tropical fruit emerging in the glass. On the palate the key word is balance, the wine is very complete with freshness, intensity, refined tension and chalky salinity. 8g/l dosage is spot on. Still young but has the building blocks of longevity. For me similar in quality to the 2008 but this will come around and peak earlier. ”

“Disgorged in July 2019, Bollinger's 2012 Brut La Grande Année is showing well, offering up an incipiently complex bouquet of crisp yellow orchard fruit, fresh peach, orange oil, toasted walnuts and dried apricot that's still quite reserved with less than a year on cork. Full-bodied, deep and muscular, the 2012 is blockier and broader-shouldered than its 2008 predecessor, with a weightier and even more concentrated palate built around a bright spine of acidity, concluding with a chalky finish that carries appreciably dry extract. This isn't quite as elegant as the exquisite 2008, but it is a superb effort and obviously built to age.”

“I love the magical moment when I get the chance, as the first journalist, to lighten the cork of the latest vintage of Bollinger La Grande Année…….The wine is made from 21 villages with Aÿ and Verzenay in the driver's seat backed by elegance from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oiry. The wine is characterized by vitality and energy more than depth at present. The colour has a brilliant golden glow and the mousse is almost panting in its resilient youthfulness. The scent is beautifully house typical, dominated by apricot, almond, hazelnut and a smoky sophisticated intensity as from a newly lit outdoor fire. The attack is stunningly intense and the weight in the oral cavity leaves nothing left to wish for. Resilient energy and fullness are combined with greatness. Anyone who has patience will be rewarded with truffled flavour layers,chocolate saturated complexity and added exoticism of honeysuckle in the wine's bouquet.”

“65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay. 21 crus: mainly Aÿ and Verzenay for the Pinot Noir, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oiry for the Chardonnay. All base wines aged in old oak and riddled and disgorged by hand. Dosage 8 g/l. Disgorged in May 2019.
Bright crème pâtissière nose with notes of Cox's orange pippin apple and lots of development. Really quite arresting. Much drier on the palate than the nose suggests, with a certain steeliness. Bone-dry finish but lots of substance on the mid palate. More recognisably Bollinger on the palate than the surprisingly rich, flirtatious nose, presumably informed by the vintage. Low-key mousse. This is clearly a long-distance runner.”

“The 2012 Grande Année is vibrant and wonderfully nuanced. Citrus peel, orchard fruit, brioche, dried flowers and chamomile are all finely knit in a Grand Année built on energy and persistence more than size. Readers will find a restrained Grand Année in 2012. There is plenty of the textural richness that is such a signature of the house style, but I am also struck by the wine's freshness. Best of all, the 2012 will drink well right out of the gate. It is quite expressive today, even in the early going.”

“Of the three bottles I so devotedly enjoyed before the rest of the journalism world had time to pounce on this rare treasure, two were somewhat tied up initially in the scent while the third showed off the impressive peacock's tail in its full glory at once. Regardless of the development phase, this is a regal and heroic Bollinger characterized by restrained power and energetic energy. I love meeting this untouched force and carefully analyzing its sublime elements, but at the same time I have to admit that we are dealing with a real "vin de garde" that will not reach its maximum capacity before its 25th birthday. The structure is impressive, based of course on the high acidity of the vintage in the first place. This very high acidity means that the other building blocks can appear as subordinate, but they have a great wealth of both oak embossed secondary aromas and flaunted dark fruit. At present, the aromatic spectrum is characterized by fresh hazelnuts from Piedmont, green apples, chalky minerals and perfumed orange blossom. Buy a case of 12 and follow its aromatic journey to heaven if you get the chance.”

“Bollinger's 2008 La Grande Année is superb, wafting from the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, ripe lemons, honeycomb, warm biscuits, dried white flowers and a delicate top note of walnuts and fino sherry. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and vinous, with a beautifully refined mousse, superb concentration at the tightly wound core, incisive acids and a supremely elegant intermingling of Bollinger's oxidative stylistic signatures with fresh, vibrant fruit. The finish is long, precise and chalky. This is a Grande Année built for the cellar—the real excitement will come with a bit more bottle age—but this is already a thrilling Champagne in the making. Finished with eight grams per liter dosage, it was disgorged by hand in July 2018. This is also the first vintage of Grande Année to be bottled in Bollinger's new narrower-necked 1846 bottle, which should make for a slower evolving wine.”

“Ripe fruity yet at the same time elegant nose with stylish restraint promising longevity. Golden delicious apples, biscuits and lemon alongside complex spicy tones. Lovely creaminess on the fresh and linear palate that finishes with a bite of mineral salinity. The tension and playfulness on the palate is its most attractive feature. Long and intense, yet light-weight palate finishing fresh with its 8g/l dosage (November 2018 disgorgement). Really satisfying already in the 75cl bottle, which benefits from the new bottle shape with narrower neck for “magnum effect”. But as always at Bollinger, the larger formats just sing bringing an attractive, complementary reductive toasty complexity. And of course the mousses in both magnum (96p->98p) and jeroboam (97p -> 99p) are ultra fine. This should have been a bigger quantity vintage for Bollinger and probably plenty will be held back as R.D. So prepare for a shortage of it.”

“Magnum - Dense nose with some of the really dry Bollinger savour on the palate. This is a wine, like so many Bollingers, that really needs time in the glass to open out – and indeed time in the bottle to develop to its full potential. This is an extremely dry-tasting wine, even though the dosage was 8 g/l, higher than usual because of the extremely low pH, 2.92. Very Bollinger but, for the moment, by no means a charmer. ”

“Bollinger's 2008 Grande Année is rich, ample and full-bodied, with all of the pedigree of the vintage on display. Dried pear, dried flowers, chamomile, red plum and mint develop as the 2008 shows the breadth and creaminess that are such signatures of the Bollinger house style. A whole range of brighter, more floral and chalky notes appear later, adding translucence and energy. The 2008 is 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay taken across 18 crus, and it is the Pinot that very much informs the wine in both flavor and texture. More importantly, the 2008 is one of the best Grande Années I can remember tasting. Bollinger fans won't want to miss it. Disgorged November 2018. Dosage is 8 grams per liter.”

“Disgorged July 2018. Tasted blind.
The lightest of these, the most evanescent. Some astringency on the end. Rather loose-textured and the least developed in this blind tasting with, apparently, not that much persistence. Very embryonic. 12% ”

“Mid gold, with a fine bead. Buttered brioche, mellow lees, with stone fruit and bruised apple. Great palate finesse with very subtle mousse, nice balance, and old-cream and brioche complexity. Long, with a vinous finish. Ready now and likely to drink relatively early.”

“Opened three weeks earlier and then re-stoppered. Disgorged June 2016. Tasted blind.
Quite complex nose and really dry and fully integrated. Hint of walnuts. Evolved yet with good fruit. This could be the RD… Complicated – requires lots of intellectual concentration. Very long.
Drink 2017-2024”

“Disgorged June 2016. Tasted blind.
Sweet and rich. I don’t think I’d guess it as Bolly on the nose. Then fairly dry on the end which might give it away. Lots of substance here. Firm and confident. Bone dry and rather demanding. Youthful. 12.5%
Drink 2016-2026”

“Deep, earthy-spicy, honeyed and nutty nose with dried fruit complexity. The oaky tones prevail underneath ample fruitiness. The evolved nose is complemented by a highly fresh, event tight palate with lovely nervosity and refreshment. The palate texture is silky smooth and vinous. Long lemony finish with notions of minerality. ”

“Bollinger's 2007 Brut La Grande Année is quite pretty. Elegant, restrained and understated in style, the 2007 is one of the more delicate young Grande Années I can remember tasting. Mid-weight structure and silky texture only reinforce that impression. Lemon oil, red berry, dried flowers and chamomile open up nicely, but it is the wine's overall feel that stands out most. Best of all, the 2007 will drink well with no cellaring. Disgorged: September 2016.”

“Magnum. Current vintage. 70% Pinot Noir, much from their own vineyards. Disgorged April 2017. Dosage 7 g/l. About 13 different villages. pH is under 3. The vintage was criticised by many people. The opening date of harvest was 20 August because of botrytis but at that stage the potential alcohol was only 9.3 or 9.4 degrees – too low! Bollinger waited until September.
Mid gold. Lots of acidity. Masses of energy and a bit more honey than some Bollingers. Apples and honey on the palate. Very fresh and even a lightly yeasty note on the palate. More refreshing than the Bolly stereotype. Maybe not that long but hugely flirtatious within the Bollinger idiom. This will definitely be an RD, I was told. Subtly mineral. Muscular.
Drink 2017-2030”

“Deep, earthy-spicy, honeyed and nutty nose with dried fruit complexity. The oaky tones prevail underneath ample fruitiness. The evolved nose is complemented by a highly fresh, event tight palate with lovely nervosity and refreshment. The palate texture is silky smooth and vinous. Long lemony finish with notions of minerality.”

“It might seem a bit surprising that Bollinger skipped the great vintage of 2006 for the more modest 2007. For me that choice is however quite logical since the Bollinger house style is much better suited to austere vintages than for fruit bombs. Here we have a classic and perfectly balanced Bollinger with deep layers and beautiful crisp apple acidity. Gorgeous balance between the dark and light as a perfect Ying and Yang marriage. Layers of dry cocoa, hazelnut fudge, dried apricots and juicy red apples dominate over a beautiful hint of forest aromas based on sous bois and mushrooms in the background. One of the three best champagnes from this vintage.”

“Disgorged September 2012. Tasted blind.
Looks, and tastes, relatively youthful. More mineral nose. Very fresh palate. Lots of zest, almost citrus. Long and satisfying. 12%
Drink 2017-2025”

“Red fruit dominant nose with pastry nuances. There is a beautifully Burgundian feel to it with an accentuated oaky note without too much of an oxidative ad-on. Dry, serious finish with its 7g/l dosage. Big and bold but not one of the most complex of vintages. ”

“Really interesting, complex nose with lots of age and development and polished autumn-leaf characters. Fascinating wine that is probably too interesting to throw back at a reception. Complete and compelling.”

“(disgorged January, 2013): Light, bright gold. Powerful orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by smoky lees, iodine, chamomile and buttered toast. At once fleshy and energetic, offering deeply pitched poached pear, peach pit and brioche flavors and a suave floral element. Finishes smoky and very long, with mounting spiciness and lingering floral and vanilla notes.”

“At this point of youthfulness the pink colour is rather rich and bright. Lovely clean and fruit-forward nose with fresh red berry aromas mixing with spice and orange notes. Quite shyly evolved with much more to surface on the complexity front. Today there is attractive exuberant fruitiness and perfect creamy freshness. Promising palate with power and persistence where an overall harmony enhances the feeling of sophistication.”

“Medium salmon pink, silver hues, fine persistent mousse. A hint of red forest berries followed by subtle smoky spice nuances, fresh cherry notes mingled with hints of white apple. Juicy and elegant on the palate, in perfect balance with enchanting fruit followed by a saline-mineral finish, displaying enormous length and a great drinking flow. An incredibly seductive rosé Champagne with great personality and real ageing potential.”

“The 2012 La Grande Année Rosé is airy, gracious and so wonderfully inviting. Crushed flowers, mint, white pepper and red berry fruit are all gracefully woven together. Today, the 2012 is naturally quite young and still shows the tension of a Champagne that was disgorged just a few months ago. Readers who prefer Champagnes with softer edges and a bit more flavor complexity will want to cellar the 2012. I have to admit, I very much like the wine today, in its youthful state, where its energy and focus are front and center. The 2012 is a blend of 67% Pinot Noir and 33% Chardonnay taken from 21 villages built around a core of Aÿ and Verzenay Pinot Noir and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oiry Chardonnay, crus that are quite complementary. Disgorged January 2020. Dosage is 8 grams per liter.”

“A blend of white Grande Année 2012 with some still red from Bollinger's Côte aux Enfants vineyard.
Quite intense salmon pink with a sort of bronze tinge. Tiny bead. Heady nose. Tastes a little drier than the current Bollinger NV Rosé with a little more grip on the end and more depth – also less evolution. Long and vibrant with a hint of strawberry juice and vegetables (cabbage?). Really rather explosive on the finish. I think for current drinking I might even choose the NV version.
Drink 2022 – 2029”

“Disgorged with eight grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's 2012 Brut La Grande Année Rosé is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, plums, orange rind, walnuts and fresh bread that only hint of the complexity to come. Full-bodied, broad and vinous, with fine depth at the core, a pinpoint mousse and racy acids, it concludes with a long and perfumed finish. The blend includes 5% red wine exclusively from Bollinger's La Côte Aux Enfants vineyard—which imparts delicate phenolic grip.”

“For the first time ever, I enjoyed the rosé edition of La Grande Année in January 2020. Mostly, LGAR has felt a little heavier than the white version. This time there is an extremely charming uplifting juiciness and fruit that makes the wine a winner. My thoughts and comparisons guides me towards historical bottles with their wonderful notes of orange fudge, nougat and white chocolate. The colour is also slightly brighter than before and the added wine from one of the foremost parcels in Aÿ, Côte aux Enfants, gives a delicious elegance and silky texture. Although the base wine is identical to LGA and only 5% red wine has been added, they are as different as night and day. The Rosé has a creaminess and charm that appeals at the moment. It is also exciting to see that the rosé has a strong element of red citrus, with blood orange and red grapefruit as clear components of the harmonic symphony. It will be an exciting journey to follow both LGA and LGAR into the future, but if I recommend a storage of at least five years in my own cellar for LGA, I will start drinking my rosé bottles with great pleasure next weekend.”

“Disgorged in January 2021, Bollinger's newly released NV Brut Blanc de Noirs PN VZ16 offers up notions of pear, apple blossom, jasmine, orange zest and fresh pastry. Medium to full-bodied, precise and elegantly vinous, it's layered and charming, with racy acids and a pretty pinpoint mousse, and it concludes with a sapid finish. It's based on the 2016 vintage, complemented by older reserve wines matured in magnum, and derives, once again, largely from the village of Verzenay.

”

“Soft, open-knit and wonderfully inviting PN VZ 16 is a worthy follow up to the sublime 2015 that launched this new Blanc de Noirs in the Bollinger range last year. Sweet red cherry, Mirabelle, spice, mint and dried flowers all grace this wonderfully translucent, expressive Blanc de Noirs. North-facing sites in Verzenay that confer tension and energy make up about half the blend, with wines from Aÿ, Bouzy and Louvois playing supporting roles. Vinification is done in equal parts steel and oak. This release is based on 2016 (50% of the blend), with reserve wines that go back to 2006, including 23% from reserve magnums. Readers who enjoy Blanc de Noirs will adore the PN VZ 16. I find the interplay of vibrancy and the creamier notes that are so typical of the house style to be incredibly appealing.”

“Very pale pink. Wonderfully pure Pinot Noir character on the nose. Very fine bead indeed. Tight in texture yet playful in flavour. A worthy successor to the 2015.”

“2007 is a rather scarcely declared vintage and not one recognized for its Pinot Noir, yet Bollinger have managed to create something so fresh and delicious from it. Its secrets are in rigorous selection and in unusually high proportion of crunchy Verzenay fruit (29%). Glossy evolving lemon colour. The coolly fruity nose comes with golden raisins, yellow apple, orange zest, juniper wood and ginger. The spiciness gets enhanced over time in the glass. The palate has rare energy and tension for an R.D. , really driven and pure. The palate is still tight and reserved, palate cleansingly dry. Seems like a really slowly ageing R.D. worth cellaring. A great call from the winemaking team to release this La Grande Année vintage as R.D. (bottle disgorged 10th July 2020)”

“Bollinger’s 2007 R.D. is superb, but it is also a wine that reflects the nature of a unique and challenging growing season. In most vintages the R.D. is marked by the distinct creaminess and breadth of Aÿ Pinot Noir. Two thousand seven, though, was a difficult year marked by very dry weather, rain at the end of the growing season and an early harvest in August, something that was not as common as it has become. Selection was essential. For the 2007, the blend is composed of just 14 villages compared to the more typical 18-25. Verzenay is the main Pinot component while Cramant plays the leading role in the Chardonnays. For these reasons, the 2007 is an R.D. driven by more focus, energy and tension than readers are used to seeing. Lemon confit, dried flowers, sage, mint, crushed rocks, almond and ginger are some of the aromas and flavors that give the 2007 its complex, multi-faceted personality.

The 2007 can be enjoyed now, but I would prefer to cellar it for a few years. It will age effortlessly for decades as it moves through the various phases of its life. I was reminded of the way Champagne can magically traverse time by magical bottles of the 1976 R.D. and 1996 Vieilles Vignes Françaises I tasted recently. The blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, 91% Grand Cru fruit and the rest Premier Cru. Bollinger fans will notice the return of the original label, with the disgorgement date clearly visible, a tribute to Madame Bollinger, who was a pioneer in so many ways. Disgorged: July 10, 2020. Dosage is 3 grams per liter.”

“Disgorged on July 10, 2020, with three grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's eagerly awaited 2007 Extra-Brut R. D. is beautiful, unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, citrus pith and white flowers mingled with hints of honey, orange oil, buttery pastry, English walnuts and delicately spicy bass notes. Full-bodied, vibrant and incisive, it's unusually elegant and structurally fine-boned for what is routinely one of Champagne's more muscular tête de cuvées, with a bright spine of acidity that's cloaked in vibrant, concentrated fruit, complemented by a pearly pinpoint mousse and concluding with an intensely sapid finish. Long and penetrating, this is a tightly coiled R. D. that will reward bottle age.

The fruit of an early harvest, beginning on September 1st, Bollinger's superb 2007 R. D. is an unusually delicate, fine-boned rendition of this habitually muscular cuvée. An additional seven years on the lees has brought additional textural and amplitude to the acid spine that was already evident in the 2007 Grande Année, and the slight loss of pressure during aging on cork makes for a more refined, pearly mousse that complements the wine's enhanced texture and amplified sapid nuance. Fermented in used oak cooperage, with tirage under natural cork and disgorgement without added sulfur dioxide (but now with jetting to ensure consistency), it's one of the few tête de cuvée bottlings still made very much as it was 40 years ago. While I don't tend to comment on packaging, Bollinger's decision to revive the tasteful aluminum label that graced this cuvée's debut 1952 rendition, when the redoubtable Madame Lilly Bollinger still presided over this house, does underscore what is a real and not merely superficial commitment to artisanal traditions.”

“Rich and mushroomy in Bollinger style on the nose with a notably dry finish. I think I might stand a good chance of identifying this wine blind…
Drink 2020–2028”

“A hint of hazelnut praline clings to the creamy notions on the nose, aligned to a pleasant smokiness and a hint of dark peony. More air adds notions of white pepper and toasted cumin. The palate is exquisitely creamy – the Bollinger hallmark – but with 2007 this texture is presented with exquisite poise. The bright freshness that underlies all this keeps a subtle but constant presence, lending structure. Beautiful depth lends a kind of solidity that anchors this in chalky soil, a class act and a very grown-up wine that says one thing only: enduring elegance.”

“Very, very different from the usual solid, powerful, broad Bollinger style. More rapier-like in approach with none of the density and mushroom notes that I usually associate with Bollinger. An unexpected style which may broaden perceptions of what this house can do. Crisp, mineral, the immediate effect was actually 'pretty' though with time in the glass it took on more weight. This reflects a little the Bollinger PN VZ15 exclusively from Verzenay with pretty marked acidity at this stage in its life. Refined with a bone-dry finish and a touch of quinine on the end. Should have a long life. Ideally I'd wait until mid 2021 before broaching this long-distance runner. With time in the opened bottle this took on more typical Bollinger weight and character.”

“One of my most exciting wine experiences was when I first tasted 1975 Bollinger R.D. with my parents at their home. During yesterday's Sunday afternoon, I served them the latest edition of 2004 blindly. The 82-year-old's reaction did not allow for a wait. Mom immediately exclaimed "the same wonderful scent of chocolate and apricot like when we drank Bollinger R.D. in the 80's". So right she was. When Bollinger decides to launch the newest vintage of R.D., the wine must have its distinctive autolytic character of freshly baked bread, chocolate, hazelnut and mushroom. That is at least the thought. I would like to say that the last vintage in 2002 did not have these features at the launch at all, but instead relied on an almost grassy elegance and refined acid structure in an remaining youthful attire. With 2004 it is different. It's precisely like this Bollinger R.D. should taste from the beginning. Nobody can be disappointed here. Perhaps, 2004, is not one of the most heroic vintages but on the other hand one of the most classic. The very essence of the R.D. concept is to try to capture a wine's optimal maturity along with maximum freshness. Unfortunately, I do not think life expectancy is as good as in the La Grande Année version, but I may be wrong. The intensity of the mature layers of dark chocolate, tobacco, black truffles from Vaucluse and a melancholy hiking in the moist autumn forest is, at least, impressive. The mousse may struggle to reach the surface of the glycerol rich essence of wine. Nevertheless, it tingles of lust on the tongue when stringency, chalk and jingeling pure acids dance over the finish line.”

“Bollinger’s 2004 R.D., tasted from magnum, is all class. Silky and understated, the R.D is super-expressive and inviting today. In 2004, the R.D. is decidedly light on its feet and more perfumed than tends to be the norm at Bollinger. Candied lemon peel, mint, apricot, pastry and yellow fruits are all laced together in a Champagne that delivers the goods. The 2004 is 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Chardonnay picked between September 25 and October 8. Disgorged: November 21, 2017.”

“Magnum. Disgorged March 2013. 100% grands and premiers crus. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay.
Mid gold. Creamy, well-integrated nose. No sign of obvious oak. Lovely texture and no excess of fizziness. Bone-dry finish. No compromises! Very Bollinger but just the right side of austere. Massive activity somehow on the palate. Long and noble. But not flattering”

“Disgorged 15 October 2007. An 'incredible, exceptional year'. Summer was very very hot and then rain came at the end of August. Cool September nights. A 16 September start to harvest in very good conditions. Exceptional Indian summer. Very high sugar and acid. 70% Pinot Noir. 16 villages. 75% grands crus. Yield 12,000 kg, initial potential alcohol 10%, TA 10 g/l, 2.92 pH, final total acidity 6 g/l, final alcohol 12.1%.
Quite deep gold. Much more developed (and even slightly oxidative) than 1997 on the nose. Strong scent of baked buttered apples. Still quite firm and dense and savoury on the palate. Dry finish. Long. Very complex and open on the nose but still very tense on the palate. Obviously this wine has a long way to go but the nose of this particular bottle was more evolved than I would have expected from the palate. A wonderful wine.”

“The 1996 R.D. from Bollinger is another superb wine from this vintage. An expressive bouquet of spices, acacia blossoms and perfumed fruit emerges from the wine's silky-textured frame. This generous R.D. is drinking well today, but also has enough freshness to age well for years. It is a great version of one of Champagne's legendary wines.”

“An absolutely fabulous Bollinger. There is so much of everything. Exotic fruit, spice, lemon, vanilla and charred characters. The lately tasted bottles have had some oxidative notes but there is so much fruit and structure that it remains secondary. Really zesty acidity, bold fruitiness and near-eternal finish.”

“Disgorged in 2013, this bottle of Bollinger's 1996 Extra-Brut R. D. vindicates the house's decision to harvest late in this high-acid vintage, as even though the 1996 has a notably low pH of 2.93, the wine also possesses the maturity of fruit to balance it. Bursting with aromas of golden orchard fruit, crème brûlée, espresso roast, spices, warm bread, smoke and honeycomb, with time in the glass hints of dried fruits and marmalade emerge. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and vinous, with a textural attack and an ample core of fruit that's complemented by a pearly mousse, concluding with a long, saline, bone-dry finish. This is the best bottle of the 1996 R. D. I've ever encountered.”

“Disgorged 4 May 2010. Picked from 1 Sep. Hot, dry summer, the hottest since 1959. 65% Pinot Noir. 70% from Bollinger's own vineyards. 10,359 kg yield, potential alcohol 10.5+%, initial acidity 6.7g/l, pH 3.1, final TA 4.8 g/l.
Pale bronze. Extremely rich and candified on the nose. Soft and round. Relatively low acid. Toasty, this just washes over you. Really hedonistic. In view of the relatively low acidity, it's amazing how well this has lasted. Presumably the very late disgorgement helps.”

“Every one of my encounters with this wine has been a slight disappointment, but then again expectations fly really high for the vintage. The earlier disgorgements have had a really sweet appearing nose with candied fruit and patisserie notes. Mouth-filling, super ripe, chunky palate short of energy. It feels like its best days are already gone. From a very recent 2012 disgorged bottle if was still fully vibrant, with a peculiar combination of aged and youthful characters. Probably still recovering from the shock of such late disgorgement.”

“Magnum tasted 10th June 2022 D: March 2014 The fruit aromatics leap out the glass, amazing intensity from this super-hot year. Has all those dried citrus notes, bitter orange, lemon, lime and grapefruit, with roasted cashews and those autumn like associations of dried blackberry, charcuterie, dark chocolate and cooked mushrooms. The palate is relatively soft and gentle, with all the power of the fruit on the aromatics and that iodine lift on the end with bitter orange really lingering. Absolutely glorious, probably about its peak now for ten years. ”

“As I wrote last year, Bollinger's 1976 Extra-Brut R. D. is simply extraordinary, wafting from the glass with scents of dried orange rind, mocha, fresh pastry, honeycomb, yellow apple, peach and smoke, complemented by subtle hints of iodine, fresh girolle mushrooms and aromatic bitters. Full-bodied, deep and complete, it's vinous and muscular, with huge concentration, racy acids and a long, pungently saline and invigoratingly bone-dry finish, enlivened by a pearly mousse. This magical Champagne represents the distilled essence of the Bollinger style.”

“Picked 1 September. pH 3.01. One of the driest vintages ever. Disgorged 2007. 2.2 bars. Dosage 4 g/l.
Much less mushroom than in the 1989. A little simpler than the 1989 but some candied fruits and TDN. Pungent, dried lemon and orange peel with a bit of bitterness. Throbs a bit on the end. Less obvious decay than the 1989. This is the profile they are looking for in RD apparently. Quite a fine texture. Very distinctive and to me not that obviously Bollinger.”

“Bollinger is still a relative newcomer to the non-vintage rosé scene, having produced this cuvée only since 2008. But it was an instant match to the house style of rich and firm Pinot fruit. It takes a mere 5% of Pinot Noir wine from Verzenay and Aÿ to give this its desired colour (salmon, with delicate peachy hues) and character. The fine nose is characterised by pristine red fruitiness playfully intermingling with spicy complexity and mineral whiffs. Still primary in fruitiness, it comes with depth and complexity. The oak takes a supporting role, leaving the delicious Pinot fruit to the fore, and the well-built, muscular palate has a degree of vinosity. This is a non-vintage rosé that is worthy of ageing. Dosage 7-8g/l”

“Pale to mid salmon. Light Pinot perfume. Well-managed mousse is just the right side of not-too-aggressive. Good balance of fruit and the dry finish. Serious rosé champagne but definitely not hard work to drink now.”

“The latest release of Bollinger's NV Brut Rosé is showing especially well, offering up complex aromas of sweet stone fruit, honeycomb, freshly baked bread and orange oil, followed by a medium to full-bodied, pillowy and vinous palate. Layered and concentrated, with a pretty pinpoint mousse and ripe but racy acids, it concludes with a long, expansive finish.”

“Like its rosé counterpart, the latest release of Bollinger's NV Brut Special Cuvée is showing especially well, bursting from the glass with aromas of honeyed apples, crisp stone fruit, buttery pastry, ripe lemons and fresh walnuts. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and vinous, with a deep core of beautifully ripe fruit, racy acids and a pillowy mousse, it's a charming, characterful wine that proves that Special Cuvée is firmly back where it belongs.”

“Disgorged in May 2021, the latest rendition of Bollinger's NV Brut Special Cuvée is showing beautifully, offering up aromas of ripe orchard fruit, citrus oil and peach, mingled with hints of walnuts and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a generous core of fruit, lively acids and a pillowy mousse, it's seamless and complete, concluding with an expansive finish.”

“The nuanced nose delivers orchard fruits layered with spice and yeastiness, and the fine, ripe concentrated fruitiness is well protected from oxidation. The very complex Bollinger blending recipe, including the laborious and costly use of long-aged reserve wines in magnums, results in something classy and seamless; this is a wine full of character. The bold, powerful palate has a fine silky texture and a stylishly mellow mousse, leaving room for the vinosity to build in the glass. This is a non-vintage that is worth maturing and is especially recommended in magnum. Dosage 8-9g/l”

“Refined nose with stylish restraint. Richness of spicy-earthy notes carefully intertwined to the lemon, apple pie, baked pear, cinnamon and vanilla tones. Super mild oxidative character beneath the intense fruitiness. Seamless structure on the generous palate. Long, mineral, dry finish. Built to last, so deserves additional post-disgorgement ageing. ”

“60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier. Bollinger don’t talk about which wine their non-vintage blends are based on because reserve wines constitute a good 50% of the blend. This was bottled in 2013 and disgorged in 2016 so 2012 is the youngest vintage. 150+ different wines in the blend. Maybe six or seven different vintages.
Very firm, Bollinger savoury style on the nose with a bone-dry finish and lots of chewiness. Dried apple-skin flavours. Really long. A fan of flavours on the end. Very distinctive.
Drink 2016-2020”

“A brilliant wine, Bollinger's 2013 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is finer boned and more elegant than the powerhouse 2008, but it is still one of the most powerful, intensely flavored wines produced in the region. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of golden orchard fruit, honeycomb, baking spices, orange oil and ripe stone fruits, it's full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a layered core of fruit girdled by racy acids. Concentrated and vinous, it concludes with a long, saline finish.”

“Back in 2014, Salon's president Didier Depond was quoted in the press as saying that “since 2008, there has been no genuinely great vintage in Champagne" and that a 2012 from Salon wouldn't be released. But the just-released 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil shows that he had good reason to change his mind, as to my palate this is, after the 2008, the finest Salon produced this millennium. Unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, wet stones, freshly baked bread, white currants and oyster shell, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tightly wound core of fruit, racy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse. Concluding with a long and resonant finish, this is a structured and powerful Salon that's a lot more incisive than, for example, the 2002 at the same stage, but which also carries more muscle and substance than a leaner vintage such as 2007. For readers that have balked at the pricing of the magnum-only 2008, the 2012 isn't far off the latter's level in quality, and will presumably be distributed more conventionally.”

“A rollercoaster year in the vineyards with hopes for a quality crop only rising at harvest time. Salon initially wasn't promising a vintage, but changed its mind having come up with something instantly rewarding. Bright, sweetly fruity nose on the sweet green fruit side: lime, pear drops, licorice, jasmine and fragrant orange blossom tones. A flick of vanilla complements the whole. The palate has a silky flow of volume yet a firm backbone of brisk acidity enhancing the notion of explosive fruitiness. The chalky mineral bite comes forward on the long, intense and dry finish. This wine hasn’t moved a lot in the past year, promising longevity. Disgorged 3/21; dosage 5g/l”

“The 2012 Salon is absolutely gorgeous. It offers a beguiling mix of radiance and energy that seems to capture a little bit of elements of some of its older siblings. The expression of fruit is radiant and quite overt, but without reaching the tropical exuberance of the 2006. In shape, the 2012 recalls the mid-weight style of 2007 with the freshness of 2008, but not quite the youthful austerity of that wine. If that sounds like an appealing combination, well it is. The 2012 Salon is all harmony and class.”

“Pinot Noir was the king of this climatically challenging vintage. Thus early on Salon wasn’t promising us a vintage. However, they changed their mind having come up with something instantly rewarding and generous. Bright, sweetly fruity nose on the tropical side with lemon, jasmine and orange blossom. The palate has volume yet a firm backbone of brisk acidity. The chalky mineral notions come forward on the long, intense and dry finish. ”

“The 1996 Salon is just dazzling. It needs a good bit of air to fully open up, but the 1996 Salon is simply a mesmerizing Champagne that sizzles with energy, cut and total precision. A second bottle later in the week was every bit as compelling. When the 1996 Salon is on, it is just about as great as Champagne gets. ”

“This bottle of the 1996 Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut was drinking superbly and represents the apotheosis of Blanc de Blancs, unfurling over the course of three hours with a stunningly complex bouquet of citrus oil, confit lemon, dried white flowers and oyster shell, with hints of praline and pastry cream becoming more pronounced as the wine opens up in the glass. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, defined by the incisive spine so typical of the vintage that, here, is cloaked in layers of crisp fleshy and chalky extract. The finish is long, penetrating and saline. Unfortunately, since the 1996 Salon has been traded so zealously over the last decade, finding a bottle that hasn't travelled too far can be a challenge. But from a perfectly stored bottle, this is just the beginning.”

“The combination of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger’s raw power, Salon’s inox-fermented non-maloed winemaking and the extremities of the 1996 vintage suggest a masochistic experience. But miraculously the result is one of all times finest Salons (given that you love the sensation of acidity, a prerequisite of any Salon fan). This is truly razor-shard and driven, aging painfully slow for the impatient. ”

“The 1996 Salon is just beginning to enter the early part of its plateau of maturity. Time in bottle has softened some of the razor-sharp focus the 1996 had when it was first released, but all of the energy it had as a young Champagne remains. A host of candied lemon, almonds and wild flowers punctuate the sculpted, persistent finish. Readers who own the 1996 can look forward to another two decades or more of exceptional drinking. This is the ultimate expression of Champagne as wine.”

“100% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, Montagne de Reims and Montgueux. The 2016 base is refined and persistent, showing tart mirabelle plum and citrus confit on one hand, but also a more extroverted green mango/lime side. An invigorating, marine/salt-spray finish. The volume, the padding of pastry and nougat, will show with more time on cork – I would give this at least 2 years on cork.”

“Base 2016 | Pale lemon in colour, with an instantly charming nose that has a layered sweet toastiness. There are pristine vanilla-laden aromas, with orchard fruit, lemon, lime and even tropical nuances. The palate is youthful with vibrancy yet also age-mellowed, with reserve-wine richness contributing velvety sensations. This is a beautiful recipe, in which the steely, mineral wines of the Côte des Blancs gain gravitas from spicy Montgueux Chardonnay and tropical tones from Villers-Marmery and Trépail on the Montagne de Reims. This Mis en Cave 2017 is based largely on 2016 fruit and has a particularly pure and perky fruitiness. Disgorged 2021; dosage 10g/l”

“Launched in 2018. Based on 2012. 25% Reserve and aged 5–6 years on lees. Mainly Vertus and Oger. Renewal of what they did before Remy Cointreau took over the company. Very small volume: 20,000 bottles. Now available in magnum.
Pretty powerful nose. Putty nose and then quite rich on the palate. Really firm and fine. Broader than the average blanc de blancs but very well made and pleasing. Ambitious.”

“Based on the 2012 vintage and disgorged in 2019, Heidsieck's NV Blanc de Blancs continues to show nicely, exhibiting aromas of lemon oil, dried white flowers, green apple and walnuts. It's medium to full-bodied, taut and chiseled. If anything it exhibits a more reserved, austere profile than it did last year. Based on this showing, it's evolving more slowly than I anticipated, and I'd be inclined to counsel readers to wait another year or two before popping corks.”

“Based on the 2017 vintage, complemented by some 25% reserve wines, Heidsieck's new NV Blanc de Blancs was disgorged in January 2021 with only two grams per liter dosage. Sourced from the Côte de Blancs, along with Montgueux (historically a stalking ground for this house), Villers-Marmery and the Sézannais, it offers up aromas of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and freshly baked bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and lively palate that's bright and layered, concluding with a chalky finish.”

“Base 2016 | Attractive white-flower and ripe-lemon aromas are married to an elegant, medium-bodied palate, where the creaminess is neatly underlined by the mousse, the lively acidity making the chalky and saline finish very clean and straight.
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“The sixth creation of Blanc des Millénaires combines fruit from four grand cru villages (Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant and Avize) with Chardoonnay from the premier cru of Vertus. True to the sunny and warm year 2006, the wine comes with deep golden hued colour already upon launch. The nose is distinctly tropical with Charles Heidsieck’s hallmark toastiness emerging quickly in the glass. Beautiful coffee tones alongside candied lemon, baked pineapple and complex floral tones. The fruitiness is laudably clean and bright. The palate is round but soon after the initial feeling of richness, the wine’s minerality and high acidity kick in. The finish turns out to be long, pure and seemingly dry. An instantly open and generous Blanc des Millénaires with more complexity arising over time. ”

“Recently disgorged with seven grams per liter dosage, the 2006 Brut Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires is expressive and charming, in keeping with the sunny, demonstrative style of the vintage. Offering up aromas of toasted brioche, honeycomb, yellow apples and preserved citrus, it's full-bodied, fleshy and textural, with a rich core of fruit, ripe acids and an attractive pinpoint mousse. It's already drinking well, and I'd be inclined to approach it sooner than the more tightly wound 2004 rendition.”

“60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, The 2012 vintage has it all. Intensity of dried stone fruit, fireworks of smoky charred yuzu/confit citrus, richness of coffee cream and papaya. Immense succulence and perfectly-pitched intensity, carried on a wave of freshness and mineral energy. Like many 2012s this is irresistible right now, but bound to improve, even if it is not the most tense or restrained style.”

“Both intense and discreet. Extremely tightly woven. Not as dry as some but certainly not simple. Tastes more youthful than many 2012s. Subtle and not flamboyant. You feel you could drink this in quantity!”

“There is fruity power beyond the reserved nose. This is a complex blend from 10 villages in which toasty coffee notes meet hay, wax, yellow apple and pear-pie notes. There is something appealingly crystalline about the fruit, but the lemony backbone of tightness seems a little austere on the palate. Structured and slowly ageing, this will rewards one's patience; however, it is currently missing some of the voluptuous sweet charm we are used to. Disgorged 2020; dosage 9.7g/l”

“Disgorged in 2019 with eight grams per liter dosage, the 2012 Brut Millésimé offers up aromas of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and clear honey, complemented by hints of toasted bread, citrus zest and linden. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly fleshy and nicely concentrated, with lively acids and a pinpoint mousse, it's more generous and demonstrative than the 2008, but it will nonetheless reward a bit of bottle age.”

“Soon to be released in magnum, the 2012 Brut Millésimé continues to show well, delivering aromas of citrus zest, crisp orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, buttery pastry and beeswax and framed by a deft touch of smoky reduction. Medium to full-bodied, racy and chiselled, with fine depth at the core and a long, penetrating finish, this bottle was disgorged in summer 2021.”

“60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, from a season that until August was very challenging for a wide range of reasons. The wine has apparently gone down well enough in the UK to provoke a second order from importer Liberty Wines. They have shipped some to the US but there is still some 2008 to work its way through the distribution channel there. Cyril Brun sees 2012 as having the richness of 2006 and the austerity of 2008 and is very keen on the increasing levels of ‘noble bitterness’ on which he is banking to balance wines now that acid levels are plummeting in Champagne. It had six years on lees and was disgorged in May 2019. The back label promises it will drink well until 2035! This wine was made by his predecessor Thierry Roset (Brun joined in time for the 2015 vintage). He imagines that Roset deliberately chose some Pinot from north-facing vineyards on the Montagne de Reims to combat warmer summers. Dosage 8 g/l; experiments continue to show that a fairly high dosage suits the Charles Heidsieck house style.
A very savoury Charles Heidsieck champagne at the moment – extremely tight and youthful with some smoky reductive notes as well as one of lime cordial. Real undertow; an exciting combination of producer and vintage with real potential.”

“'A dangerously drinkable wine' according to chef de cave Cyril Brun, and I wouldn't contest that. I adore it for its inviting approachability, pure fruitiness, vibrancy and impeccable balance. The colour is intense with golden tones. The nose is not short of nuances: stunning smoky toastiness and rich biscuit notes are complemented by generosity of fresh and dried fruits ranging from apricots to tropical fruits and zesty lemony layers. It sits between reductive and oxidative styles, leaning safely towards the former. On the palate, the marriage of Charles’ hallmark velvety texture, the invigorating tension and the tiniest bubbles is disarming. Highly creamy and generous but ending on a fresh note of stylish bitterness at the back palate, probably partly due to the drier than usual style, dosed perfectly at 8g/l. A classic blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay with Grand & Premier Cru sourcing from the Montagne de Reims and Côte de Blancs. The key villages are Aÿ, Oger, Vertus, Chouilly, Ludes and Cuis for Chardonnay and Ambonnay, Tauxieres and Avenay for Pinot Noir. ”

“Very lemony (blossoms, zest and candied peel), with some red-berry and fresh tobacco-leaf notes. Impressive richness and concentration, the creaminess from lees beautifully matched by the fine mousse and mineral freshness. The latter also powers the structured and saline finish that makes a serious statement.
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“Disgorged March 2017, embargoed until they sell in October 2017. They’ve done it the other way around from the vintage rosé releases. Cyril Brun thinks he would have released the 2006 before the 2005. But it had never been done… Dosage 10 g/l. Only grand cru and premier cru fruit. 61% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay.
Quite deep gold. Quite creamy nose and round and quite rich on the palate. Welcoming with a candied-walnuts flavour. Lots of appeal, even if softer than some.”

“Deep golden colour. Highly creamy nose with emerging toasty opulence. Full of luscious, ripe fruit. Opens beautifully in the glass. There is impressive generosity on the mouth-filling, oily palate, boosted by concentrated, age-mellowed fruitiness. Long, almost chewy but appropriately fresh finish. Finely balanced at 10g/l dosage. ”

“Disgorged 2016. Greenish gold. Intense and brooding with the merest hint of coconut (apparently a Charles Heidsieck trait). Very tense but rich and dense too. Dry finish. Would ideally be released now but in fact it’s coming to the end of supply. Should perhaps have been held back?
Drink 2017-2027”

“This seems to have been around a long time! Deep gold. Very fine persistent bead. Lots of autolysis and substance on the nose. Real lift on the finish. This tastes like wine, with all its complexity, rather than a constructed champagne. Still quite a bit of grip on the end. Very satisfying indeed.”

“The nose is surprisingly reminiscent of the Bollinger 2005 tasted immediately before. Solid and complex with a wild floral note. Bone dry and with a bit more focus and lift than the Bollinger.”

“The 2005 Vintage Brut – a classic mix of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – is a very ripe and concentrated Champagne with a bit of bitterness in the finish. "2005 was austere as a young wine, but since 2015, it shows very well and promises a very good aging potential," finds chef de cave Régis Camus. The wine opens deep, pure and fresh on the nose, with very clear white fruit aromas, spiced bread and a very clear definition. Light, fresh and finesse-full on the silky-textured palate, but also round and intense, this is a very elegant and refined vintage Champagne. It has a pure and fresh finish, and a long and intense aftertaste.”

“The 2005 Brut Vintage is an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Brioche, pastry, baked apple and apricot are some of the notes that flesh out in the glass. Supple, expressive and inviting, the 2005 offers lovely balance, especially for the year. Warm, toasty notes meld into the resonant, enveloping finish. This is quite lovely. Disgorged: May 6, 2014.”

“Still very young, this holds great potential. Rich, full-bodied and densely structured, it is a wine first, sparkling second. Ripe apple and peach flavors partner with a strongly mineral texture.”

“Striking nose of candied orange, dipped in bitter chocolate and tobacco leaf. Powerful and mouth-filling, with impressive textural richness. Now at its best, the dry finish fully mature, but complex and spicy.”

“This was recently tasted in jeroboam only. Deep golden colour. Rich honeyed nose with roast coffee, vanilla and fudge. Aged but perfectly healthily so. Concentrated, round velvety palate with still plenty of fruity length. Long, winey, firm finish. Such a pleasurable gastronomic wine today, the essence of Charles. ”

“Deep, mature golden colour. Slightly mushroomy but otherwise healthy coffee-toned rich, sweet nose. Fresh vibrant palate where the fruitiness is fading but there is still plenty left. A mature wine showing ageing depths. Long with dried fruit profile. ”

“Remarkable depth of mature aromas - tons of candied lemon peel, dried pear and brioche - plus wonderful textural richness on the palate make this stand out amongst the regular Brut NVs. Then comes the intense and very long, mineral finish to crown this prince of the category.”

“Based on the 2017 vintage, complemented by 50% reserve wines (emphasising Pinot, which was in short supply in the base vintage), Heidsieck's NV Brut Réserve exhibits aromas of sweet citrus fruit, buttery pastry, dried white flowers, bee pollen, crisp orchard fruit and praline. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and seamless, with a pretty core of fruit, lively acids and chalky structure, it's a giving, charming wine that will offer a broad drinking window.”

“Base 2017 - Bright pale copper colour. Youthful nose promises further evolution. (An earlier cuvée of this wine served at the end of the Tolpuddle vertical was notably deeper-flavoured.) Everything's in balance but I'd put this away for a year or two so that you can celebrate 201 or 202 years of Liberty in style.
Drink 2024–2030”

“Remarkable depth of mature aromas - tons of candied lemon peel, dried pear and brioche - plus wonderful textural richness on the palate make this stand out amongst the regular Brut NVs. Then comes the intense and very long, mineral finish to crown this prince of the category.”

“Based on the 2017 vintage, complemented by 50% reserve wines (emphasising Pinot, which was in short supply in the base vintage), Heidsieck's NV Brut Réserve exhibits aromas of sweet citrus fruit, buttery pastry, dried white flowers, bee pollen, crisp orchard fruit and praline. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and seamless, with a pretty core of fruit, lively acids and chalky structure, it's a giving, charming wine that will offer a broad drinking window.”

“Base 2017 - Bright pale copper colour. Youthful nose promises further evolution. (An earlier cuvée of this wine served at the end of the Tolpuddle vertical was notably deeper-flavoured.) Everything's in balance but I'd put this away for a year or two so that you can celebrate 201 or 202 years of Liberty in style.
Drink 2024–2030”

“Strikingly opulent and rich, full of cream-laden coffee character and delicious candy floss notes. The winey, velvety palate shows graceful evolution, the best bottles are perfectly crisp and lively still. Peaking beautifully now but there is no hurry. ”

“Grilled almonds, sweet acacia honey, fruits compote and vanilla on the complex, beguiling nose. It is only the light mushroomy note that deducts from the appeal. Rich and vinous on the palate with the finish slightly drying out. I have encountered encountered better bottles, less troubled by the mushroomy note. ”

“The first jeroboam showed a little bit of TCA, alas, but very exciting underneath. Second jeroboam: powerful, pungent nose. Intense and a little bit smoky. More youthful by quite a mile than the magnum. Long and vibrant.
First jeroboam: disgorged 2015. Second jeroboam: disgorged February 2019.”

“Mis en Cave 2001 - This wine is based on the 2000 vintage, which was magical for Charles Heidsieck`s vintage cuvée. The aroma profile is distinctly on the tertiary side, with less prominent toastiness than usual. Charles` typical dried apricot and honey aromas are well represented in this fully mature wine`s sweet deliciousness, along with mushroomy and woody notes. The charmingly voluptuous palate, however, is full of life, with compact, healthy fruitiness and a refreshing acid line.”

“Charles Heidsieck 2000 - This wine is a serial winner, having conquered nearly every pedestal in the wine world, amongst them FINE Champagne '100 Best' winner in 2013 and Gold at 2014 CSWWC. Super luscious, sweet apricot, coffee with cream, wheat, brown butter, ginger and honeycomb nose with toasty richness in opulence. So deep, complex and soft. Caressingly smooth, even velvety palate with plenty of fruit and leesy richness. Power but comes with elegance. Matured to perfection. Ready to drink but there is no hurry. Note for 2012 disgorgement.”

“MeC 2001 - Based on 2000. 37% Pinot Noir, 21% Pinot Meunier, 42% Chardonnay. Dosage 11 g/l. Lower percentage of Pinot Noir than in most MEC. 2000 was a great year in which the vintage wine was considered one of the best they had made. 34% reserve wine. Disgorged 2006.
Mid gold, super-fine mousse. Remarkable at this age. Less toasty than the 2008, still ripe in its fruit profile, a little more toasty with air and remains surprisingly delicate – at least it gives that impression but it is powerful underneath. A hint of torrefaction. Just a tiny hint of mushrooms. And with marked reductive struck match on the palate. Tastes incredibly youthful and has amazing length. Still so sharply defined, great balance between the richness and freshness. Very impressive. ”

“The absolute quality of this vintage is only just starting to make itself clear, although it is not one for the immediate hedonists - a steely, long-distance stare of a rosé...63% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay. I have to freely admit that I wondered whether this wine would prove too austere when I first tasted it in 2021. Retasting in summer 2022, though, that austerity has morphed into an exciting tension that promises much for the future, the reductive tightness eased open a little. Still, it's no casual rosé this, super compressed and steely with red and orange citrus intensity, around which fragrant blackberry, allspice and dried apple notes tempt you in. It may end up in a sweet spot a little earlier than imagined; worth waiting five years for some exciting flavour development.”

“Launched some two years after its white sibling, Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millésime 2008 greets you with instant Charles charm. The typical, heavenly ground coffee note is there but it remains coolly reserved with crunchy fruit profile that still holds back a lot. Peach, blood orange and lemon peel with a spicy twist. A rosé d’assemblage with 9% red wine, half from Les Riceys, half from Montagne de Reims, it is elegant, focused, even tight for the time being. The palate finishes very dry with the lowest-ever dosage for Charles, 7g/l, bringing a gastronomic, phenolic bite to the fore. In its breezy lightness and vivacious style it differs greatly from the previous releases but promises to be a slowly ageing keeper. Only a tiny volume was produced and regrettably no magnums, soo ne better move fast with this one. ”

“This age-defying rosé is a blend of 15 crus, with villages such as Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Vertus, Ambonnay, Avenay, Aÿ and Tauxières all playing a part. The wine has received its developing pale peach colour from the 9% addition of Les Riceys and Montagne de Reims Pinot Noir. There is plenty of hidden power on the tight nose, which first releases super-fine toasty nuances of the mocha and bonfire kind. The fruitiness is crunchy and cool, with fresh berries meeting red and yellow apples, peach and apricot. The palate is tight and linear, with plenty of tension enhancing the sense of dynamism. Even if prickly from its bubbles, the texture is super-smooth and silky, leading to a long, purely fruity finish. The low dosage (by Charles standards) enhances the feeling of bright radiance. Disgorged 2021; dosage 7g/l”

“Elaborated with 63% Pinot Noir (including 9% of red wine) and 37% Chardonnay, this rosé from Charles Heidsieck is sourced from 11 grands and premiers crus. With a much lower dosage than in previous years (7g/L), it has a spicy and smoky nose with pomegranate, citrus, liquorice and red berry aromas. Harmonious and elegant, the palate is full-bodied with both tense and fresh texture interplays, with a vinous structure. A gastronomic rosé built for long ageing. ”

“The newly released 2008 Brut Rosé unwinds in the glass with youthfully reticent notes of tart red berries, white flowers and citrus oil, framed by a touch of light reduction—which I suspect is accentuated by the wine's Diamant closure. Following the wine in my office, it was only on the third day that hints of plums and licorice began to emerge. Medium to full-bodied, taut and chiseled, it's concentrated and layered, with real cut and energy, but it's also borderline austere and will require patience to realize all its potential. When compared with the rich, demonstrative 2006, it was to be expected that the 2008 would represent a change of pace; but the contrast is even starker than I would have expected.”

“An amazing 2008 rosé Champagne that has all the structure and aromatic complexity - sushi ginger, oolong tea and caramelised mandarin orange - we associate with this vintage, but also has more charm than most. On the palate, this has stunning concentration, yet is diamond bright. The interplay of creaminess, fine tannins and mineral acidity builds and builds at the breathtaking finish. The colour comes from about 7% pinot noir red wine, partly from the little-known Les Riceys in the far south of Champagne.”

“Disgorged 2016. Dosage 10 g/l.
Pale to mid salmon pink. Very lively and flirtatious. Lifted and berry fruit. For white meat and shellfish. Seems much lighter and sweeter than the 2005 vintage rosé that won't be released until spring 2018. Pretty.
Drink 2016-2022”

“Mid coppery pink (same hue as the Dom Pérignon Rosé 2005) with a fresh strawberry aroma, even with a hint of strawberry jam. Enough acidity and nice balance with a very fine bead. Far from bone dry but with a light savoury thread running through it. Very nice texture.”

“Seductive smoky, flinty aromas wrap around pretty red fruits and gentle oriental spices. A harmonious palate with a creamy texture, lovely strawberry and red currant fruits and a touch of spice. The finish is generous, yet subtly restrained, supported by fresh chalky minerality.”

“Charles Heidsieck have decided to launch the Vintage Rosé 2006 before the 2005, which to them still needs time. Opulent raspberry, fresh peach and caramel nose with stylish spicy complexity but only emerging toastiness. The palate is highly youthful, plump, almost oily in its richness. The finish is tight with pencil shavings notes and slight phenolic feel to it. The dosage has been decreased to well-balanced 9g/l. A generous year suiting perfectly to Charles’ style but should be given time to develop its toasty and coffee complexity typical for Charles Heidsieck.”

“Charles Heidsieck's 2006 Brut Rosé (with 10% Pinot Noir red wine) has been launched before the 2005. Disgorged at the end of 2014, the wine offers a delicate and intense wild strawberry flavor with some lovely spicy aromas on the nose. Ample, full and round, this is a lovely matured Rosé with a super intense and aromatic Pinot character (sweet cherries, red berries). The finish underlines the great complexity, purity and finesse of this vinous Rosé. There are cherry aromas again in the long aftertaste. An impressive Rosé.”

“This is a pale-colored wine with a finely wrought texture and great fruit. It is tight and mineral on the one hand, but balanced with the crispest red-currant flavors that offer a bright line in acidity. Delicious hints of age round out the final fresh aftertaste.”

“Heidsieck's 2006 Brut Rosé Vintage offers good immediacy and plenty of intensity, both of which make it quite appealing. Still a bit tight, the 2006 could use another year or more in bottle to soften. Although light in color, the 2006 packs a pretty serious punch. Hints of orange zest, chalk and white pepper add an attractive upper register on the finish. With time in the glass, the 2006 softens nicely, hinting at a bright future. Disgorged: October 28, 2014.”

“With a pale hue in the glass, this has a savory nose that delivers a very nicely struck toasty edge with chalky pastry and faint red fruits. The palate's sophisticated and fine texture is mesmerising, and this really dances. It leaves a trail of red berry fruits in its wake through to a long, pure, fresh and spicy finish. Drink now.”

“100% Chardonnay. Seven years' ageing on lees. Disgorged December 2014. Dosage 3 g/l.
Tasted blind. Greenish deep straw. Creamy, lively nose. Fairly high dosage. I was going to guess Comtes until I saw that it wasn’t in the line-up! Slightly pinched finish. But then a peacock’s tail. The richest of these wines.
Drink 2014-2023”

“100% Chardonnay in a special walled, so early-ripening, eighteenth-century vineyard in Reims. Part of it was planted in 1962 and part in 1986 after the frosts of 1985. What happened to these grapes before Clos Lanson was bottled separately to celebrate Philippe Bejot’s acquisition of Lanson in 2006? They went into vintage and Black Label. Fermented in pièces from Burgundy and 300-litre casks from Argonne.
Smoky nose. So distinctive! A bit like Laphroaig malt whisky! The oak still rather marks it but Hervé claims it’s ideal to drink now. Good acidity but there are definite oak overlays. Fruit is a tad weak for the moment, but should come out from behind the oak eventually. Good saline quality. Again, not one of the most intense on the finish.
Drink 2020-2030”

“The 2006 Clos Lanson is bright, focused and exceptionally pure. Veins of underlying acidity and chalkiness give the 2006 its super-distinctive, saline-driven personality. Lemon peel, white flowers, chalk and white pepper develop in the glass, adding further dimensions of nuance. With time in the glass, the 2006 acquires lovely textural brilliance, but it remains tense, crystalline and absolutely impeccable in its purity. The aromatics could use a bit more finesse and freshness, but otherwise this is a solid debut. Clos Lanson is fermented entirely in barrel, but the oak is very nicely integrated. Disgorged December, 2014.”

“From the immured one-hectare vineyard on the top of the hill, which also harbors the cellar of Champagne Lanson that dates back into the 18th century, the 2006 Clos Lanson is 100% first press Chardonnay from a very fine, chalky soil. It was fermented and aged in Argonne oak until spring 2007 (no malolactic fermentation), and disgorged after seven and a half years on the lees in December 2014 as Brut Nature with a dosage of three grams per liter. This bright yellow-golden colored prestige Champagne offers a brilliant nose of pure and ripe Chardonnay, along with delicate chalky flavors. Full and round on the palate, with a nice freshness and purity, this is a very elegant and well-balanced Blanc de Blancs. it has an aromatic as well as clear, fresh and mineral finish. This very first release has a very good length and characteristic mineral taste, with iodine notes along with ripe fruit and vanilla brioche flavors in the finish. This is a great new entry in the Lanson portfolio and it will improve with age. Total production is 7,870 serially numbered bottles.”

“A new bottling on me in a broad, straight-sided flask from a single plot in Reims next to the cellars. 100% Chardonnay. Disgorged December 2014.
Pale golden straw. Impressive aromatic completeness and integration on the nose – although one is hit by Lanson’s trademark high acidity on the palate. Very firm and still quite chewy. Tastes pretty youthful and aggressively frothy. I’d hold on to this for quite a while. Embryonic. 12%”

“Generous fruit from the weathered chalk site is enhanced by a bright acidity, triggering mineral complexities. So delicious, tout en plaisir. The mineral imprint makes it a great match for ocean fish, especially turbot. A lovely surprise from the warm walled clos.
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“Rich golden colour. Highly expressive nose with tropical fruit, smoky layers sweet brioche and spicy vanilla aromas and finely integrated note of high-quality oak. Voluptuous, round, fleshy palate that is mouth-filling at first until the fine, zesty acidity kicks in and lifts the palate. The finish is minerality driven, fresh and succulent, emphasizing fruit purity. Great intensity and length.”

“The latest release of Delamotte's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs, the house's emblematic bottling, is once again showing very well, bursting with aromas of citrus zest, freshly baked bread, nougat, crisp stone fruit and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ample and pillowy, with a fleshy core of fruit, bright acids and a pretty pinpoint mousse, it's a seamless, elegant wine that concludes with a flavorful finish.”

“The latest rendition of Delamotte's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs is drinking very well out of the gates, offering up aromas of crisp orchard fruit and citrus zest mingled with hints of fresh bread and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and precise, with bright acids and chalky grip, concluding with a dry finish, this is a classy, seamless wine that will offer a broad drinking window.”

“This is a classic racy-mineral Chardonnay from the grand cru villages of the Côte des Blancs: Avize, Cramant, Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. The reserve wines are kept to a minimum in the blend to enchance the fresh, zingy and mineral style. There is a stylish restraint to the youthful, cool nose, which gives off stony mineral tones, complemented by faint smoky notes. The palate is equally subdued, with impeccable fruit quality shining through in a highly transparent way. Long, linear structure and palate-soothing texture. This is a truly emblematic Côte des Blancs Chardonnay in a cool, reserved but pristinely fruity style. Dosage 7g/l”

“(8 g/l dosage): Light yellow. Mineral-tinged peach, melon and pear aromas display excellent clarity, picking up a subtle floral quality with aeration. Supple and seamless on the palate, offering vivid honeydew and pit fruit flavors accented by a vibrant lemon zest quality. Finishes very long, silky and precise, with an echo of juicy melon and strong mineral lift.”

“Mostly 2012 with 25% reserve (2010 and 2011).
Wonderfully fragrant - smells white and pure but there are delicate notes of yeasty autolysis and scented lemons and white peach. Perfect balance here, finesse and elegance and no lack of flavour intensity and length. Fine and persistent mousse. (JH)”

“Le Mesnil, Avize, Oger, ‘300% grand cru’. Base 2013 plus 30% reserve wines. Disgorged September 2017. Just released. No info on back label. Dosage 6.5–7 g/l. This wine is very successful in Japan apparently. 30–35% of Salon and Delamotte’s business is in Japan. ‘Italy and Japan are very similar markets for high-quality products’.
Fine and firm – tight-knit, tiny little bubbles. Fine bead with a tiny bit of softness but still a little chewy on the end.”

“One third of each, Le Mesnil, Cramant and Oger, make up for the lovely smoky-mineral yet pure fruity essence of Delamotte non-vintage blanc de blancs. Lemon curd, butter, pastry and charred wood nuances on top of a highly mineral backbone. Lean, long and mouth-watering as it should be.”

“The latest release of Delamotte's NV Brut is especially charming, bursting with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, peach and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and enveloping, it's a fleshy, giving wine that's ample and pliant, with a pinpoint mousse and a nicely defined finish.”

“Quite impressive richness and gently toasty aromas on the nose here with almond, savory and sweet, bready autolysis notes. The palate has a fresh, succulent and smooth feel with soft, citrusy fruit flesh. Holds long. Drink now.”

“The purely fruity, classily withdrawing nose gives off lovely reductive gunpowdery and smoky whiffs. The fruit is mainly on the white-fruit side, with lemon, mirabelle plums and sweet peach contributing. The palate is silky but airy, with a lovely friendliness to it all. This is a great-value, quaffable Champagne, but it's by no means boring. The secret here is the 90% grand cru fruit. Dosage 8g/l”

“The latest release of Delamotte's NV Brut Rosé is showing beautifully, offering up aromas of tangerine, red plums, cherries and spices. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and precise, with a fleshy core of fruit, bright acids and a pinpoint mousse, it concludes with a chalky finish. As ever, it's a seamless, elegant wine.”

“Bright salmon colour, with a peachy tinge. Since Laurent-Perrier is the winemaking parent of Delamotte, the maceration method of the house is also employed here. The expressive nose is all about sweet Pinot fruit of Montagne de Reims origin. There are primary strawberry and cherry fruits here but also some curious spicy sous-bois development. The high proportion of Pinot Noir comes across even stronger on the palate, and a touch of tannin brings some grip to the dry finish. An elegant but gastronomic style. Dosage 7g/l”

“The latest release of Delamotte's NV Brut Rosé offers up expressive aromas of red apples, crisp stone fruit, cherries and fresh pastry, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping palate. Comparatively rich and textural for this routinely elegant, fine-boned cuvée, it's more gastronomic than usual.”

“The 2010 Blanc de Blancs is a very pretty, finely-knit wine with striking Chardonnay purity but also the textural depth that makes the best wines here so compelling. Lemon confit, white flowers, vanillin and spice all open up nicely in the glass. This is an especially generous, fleshy style of Blanc de Blancs, although brighter, chalkier notes emerge with time in the glass. All the elements are in the right place. Disgorged: February 24, 2016.”

“Deutz's 2010 Blanc de Blancs Brut (LR114D05516) opens quite clear, fresh and fruity on the open, elaborate and very fine nose from which I pick up some popcorn, burnt milk, toast and yeasty notes but also stewed seed fruit and a possibly a hint of botrytis. On the palate, this is a round, finessed and elegant Chardonnay with a firm, mineral structure, grip and good length. Tasted June 2018.”

“Charming and expressive, Deutz's 2014 Brut Millésimé bursts from the glass with aromas of fresh peach, citrus oil, ripe green apple, clear honey and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly fleshy and fine-boned, it's bright and lively, with a pinpoint mousse and a long, nicely defined finish.”

“Smells very much more youthful than the Taittinger 2014. Not to say restrained. Very dry and bracing, and still pretty young. I’d ideally keep it for a while before broaching. Marked acidity but lots of fruit.”

“The Deutz 2012 Brut is a lovely entry-level vintage Champagne from Deutz. The white orchard fruit and floral notes confer freshness. Medium in body and light on its feet, the 2012 is a terrific choice for drinking over the next handful of years, while the flavors remain fresh. This is a very pretty wine from Deutz.”

“Deep gold. Deeply savoury and almost white burgundy-like on the nose. Very broachable and well balanced. No suggestion of excessive youth. Brisk but not tart.”

“Notes of both Golden Delicious and Granny Smith apples fill the nose with their respective ripeness and freshness. The palate is slender, almost delicate, and vivid with the fresher rather than the riper apple notes. The mousse is fine and lively, supporting and underlining the fruit-driven yet-elegant style of this wine. The wood influence is beyond subtle and beautifully handled. An ideal, understated and refreshing aperitif.”

“Bright yellow-gold. Ripe orange, poached pear and vanilla on the deeply perfumed nose. Fleshy and open-knit, offering pliant orchard and pit fruit flavors braced and lifted by juicy acidity. At once rich and lively, with the vanilla note repeating on the smooth, toasty finish. Just over one-third of this blend is barrel-fermented reserve wine.”

“Attractive nose of caramelised apples, dried apricots, pastries, shortbread, praline and some roasted vanilla bean. Some saline notes, too. Medium-to full-bodied with bright acidity and silky bubbles. Sleek and well integrated.”

“In keeping with Devaux's dry style, this crisp rosé is bone dry, with a strong mineral edge as well as red-currant flavors that are now shining through. With a little bottle age, it is now softening while retaining all its fruitiness.”

“Classic lemon-zest and tension nose that I associate with Dom Pérignon, but with extra weight and depth. And quite marked phenolics on the end which suggest this will have a remarkably long life. And, as Vincent Chaperon readily admitted, will definitely show up as a P2 star. Clean and neat and with light smokiness on the finish. Dom P always plays the reduction card. Hugely impressive persistence. Still a baby.”

“In a near-perfect year, following a truly challenging growing season, Dom Pérignon ended up being equipped with an amazing choice of exciting and versatile building blocks for the cuvée, especially on the Pinot Noir front: Aÿ, Verzenay, Bouzy, Hautvillers... Some other vintages were vinegrowers vintages but with this one the chef de cave really wore the blender’s hat. The 2012 was a vintage of both freshness and density. At Dom Pérignon they really played the density card, effortlessly compacting together so much delicious, crunchy, perfectly ripe fruit. The nose is welcoming, harmonious and deeply fruity with Dom Pérignon’s hallmark fragrant smoky layeres. But the elements of surprise catch up with you on the palate. At first the wine feels deceptively light but then comes the fruity power and sheer volume. The wine’s most unique feature is the scintillating or tingling sensation that takes over and energises the rich, round and compact palate. It is almost as electrically charged as this nervousness and vibrancy bring such an exciting dynamism on the long, deliciously succulent palate. Dom Pérignon have made it again, they surprised me by playing on their fortes of incomparable resources and audacious winemaking.”

“The 2012 Dom Pérignon is a dense, powerful wine. I am almost shocked by its vinous intensity and raw, unbridled power. The 2012 reminds me of the 2003, but with more finesse and not quite as pushed. Mildew, rain and frost were challenges and resulted in low yields, something that was further compounded by warm, dry weather that concentrated the fruit even more. Those qualities result in a dense Dom Pérignon endowed with real phenolic intensity. It is one of the most reticent young Doms I can remember tasting, I wouldn’t even think of opening a bottle for at least a few years.

”

“The 2012 Dom Pérignon has turned out very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with notes of Anjou pear, smoke, toasted nuts, freshly baked bread and crisp stone fruit. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's still tightly wound, its incipiently fleshy core of fruit framed by racy acids and chalky grip, complemented by a classy pinpoint mousse. A touch drier and a touch less reductive than the 2008 out of the gates, these two vintages are clearly destined to be compared for some time to come; but at this early stage, my instinct is that the 2012 will have the edge in the long term. 2023-2050”

“Wonderful elegance and balance to this Dom Pérignon with cooked apple, lemon and hints of white pepper and salt. It’s medium-bodied with really fine bubbles and balance. Spicy at the end. So wonderfully fresh, linear and long. Racy and elegant. A Dom Pérignon that invites to drink right now. All about finesse. Tension, too, with precise phenolics and bright acidity on the back palate. Subtle energy. Drinkable now, but will develop beautifully in the bottle.”

“Unquestionably the finest Dom Pérignon of the decade, the 2008 Dom Pérignon is drinking brilliantly today, wafting from the glass with notes of citrus oil, ripe orchard fruit, peach, buttered toast, pastry cream, iodine and smoky reduction. Full-bodied, rich and fleshy, it's vinous and layered, with a deep core of sweet fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish. The 2008 is aging very gracefully.”

“The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and structure. Today, the richness of the fruit is especially evident. Readers who own the 2008 should be thrilled, but patience is a must.”

“The 2008 Dom Pérignon is once again stunning. More than anything else, I am surprised by how well the 2008 drinks given all the tension and energy it holds. Then again, that is precisely what makes 2008 such a unique vintage – namely that the best wines are so chiseled and yet not at all austere. Lemon peel, almond, mint, smoke and crushed rocks are all finely sculpted, but it is the wine’s textural feel, drive and persistence that elevate it into the realm of the sublime. The 2008 will be even better with time in the cellar, but it is absolutely phenomenal even today, in the early going. Three recent bottles have all been nothing short of magnificent. ”

“Really complex nose. Tight and layered. Very much a 2008 with very high acidity but much more undertow and embroidery than the Grande Dame 2008. Still very youthful. I’d be tempted to decant this, almost!”

“There is a striking easiness to this seductively fruity and soft vintage of Dom Pérignon that from first sight might come across obvious. Overt, inviting nose of pristine, sunkissed fruit with exotic fruit nuances. At this early stage it comes with a delicately toasty undertone with ripe peach, lemon sorbet and yellow apple. Plush, rounded and succulent palate with caressing mousse. Plenty of appeal on the intense, crisp-enough, wide open palate that is beautifully textured. At a closer look there is in-built power underneath the first impression of a charm and warmth. Highly enjoyable already now with many more nuances waiting to be revealed over time. ”

“This keenly-anticipated wine has deliberately been held back to be released after the Dom Pérignon 2009 and in fact will not be released commercially until towards the end of 2018 (although it already seems pretty good to me). Geoffroy reminded me that the growing season was no picnic - in fact he described all but the end of it as 'miserable' because it was so overcast and the disease pressure was so high. Fine weather at the end finally ripened the grapes though acid levels were notably high. I wondered whether, since the grapes were harvested just as the global financial crisis was beginning to bite, they reduced the quantity made of Dom P, but no. 'We made lots!', he assured me.
Brisk, tiny mousse. Notably rich nose - very Dom P! There's a hint of something marine on the nose (Michael Broadbent's oyster shells?) and then extremely tight and lacy - it somehow reminded me of a sponge because of springy texture. Masses of energy here, as well as the usual flirtatiousness. It will continue to open out, I'm sure. I tasted it very cool and then went back to it at almost room temperature a couple of hours later and it stood up extremely well. The official Geoffroy description of this vintage is 'athletic' and 'vertical'. 'All 2008s are bright in terms of fruit; we want ours to shine white light. We have deliberately warmed it up a bit, working on the muscle to better integrate the acidity.'”

“The 2008 Dom Pérignon is fabulous, but quite remarkably, it was even more open when I tasted it a year ago. Bright, focused and crystalline in its precision, the 2008 is going to need a number of years before it is at its best. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint and white pepper give the 2008 its chiseled, bright profile. Several recent bottles have all been magnificent. What I admire most about the 2008 is the way it shows all the focus, translucence and energy that is such a signature of the year, and yet it is also remarkably deep and vertical. In other words, the 2008 is a Champagne that plays in three dimensions.”

“Tasted blind. Notably sweet – icing sugar? – nose. More serious on the palate. Great tightly drawn texture suggests Dom P. But not enormous undertow, just a little loose. A 2004?”

“Another stellar wine, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development, as well as a bit of added weight it did not have as a young wine. The 2004 remains a bright, mid-weight DP built on persistence and length more than overt volume. I have always had a soft spot for the 2004. This tasting does nothing to dampen that enthusiasm.”

“Three-litre Jéroboam. A vintage described by Richard Geoffroy as ‘a no-brainer – you just had to be wise enough to step back’. The biggest ever vintage – still.
Real richness of age on the nose – even a suggestion of crème pâtissière. This is a real classic with massive edge and excitement. Lovely neat, saline finish.
Drink 2015-2030”

“A wine of nuance, precision and understatement, the 2004 remains all grace. Time has softened some of the contours, but the flavors remain fresh and vibrant. Medium in body, the 2004 can be enjoyed now or cellared for several decades. This is a gorgeous showing from the 2004, a wine that has been captivatingly beautiful from the first time I tasted it years ago. There is something effortless about the 2004 that is hard to capture with words. The 2004 doesn't quite have the obvious breeding of the 2008 and 2002, nor the obvious power of the 2003 or 2006, and yet it is harmonious, sublime and totally sensual. ”

“One of the stars in this tasting, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is starting to express the potential it hinted at as a young wine. Specifically, the 2004 has gained quite a bit of volume and overall depth within the last few years. The first signs of aromatic nuance are starting to develop, which suggests the 2004 will soon enter its first plateau of maturity.”

“Elegantly toasty sweet patisserie nose with coffee, perfume and flowers. Lively, mineral, racy, crisp palate with great fruit purity. On the reductive side but beautifully so. Still young with tight, compact palate. A ballerina. A classic, super fresh and delightfully light Dom Pérignon with a green note and a cool breeze to it. I will love to follow up how this one ages. Very much a DP and very much a 2004.”

“The 2004 Dom Pérignon is from a classic vintage and a very generous year in terms of yields. White-golden in color, the clear, discreet and subtle nose gives way to dried white rather than yellow fruits, raisins and hazelnuts, as well as to floral and herbal aromas. Less generous and concentrated in the mouth than the 2005 and austerely dry at the moment, the 2004 shows its great finesse and characteristic minerality. There should be a better point of time to praise its class, so trust and keep it!”

“Elegantly toasty sweet patisserie nose with coffee, perfume and flowers. Lively, mineral, racy, crisp palate with great fruit purity. On the reductive side but beautifully so. Still young with tight, compact palate. A ballerina. A classic, super fresh and delightfully light Dom Pérignon with a green note and a cool breeze to it. I will love to follow up how this one ages. Very much a DP and very much a 2004.”

“Tasted blind. Very minerally nose. Excellent acidity. Very well structured. Still a little bit of framework here as well as fruit. Quite a youthful wine. But broad and exotic on the nose. 2004? ”

“Racy, silky and vibrant in the glass, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is all about energy. Here the flavors are bright and delineated throughout, with veins of acidity and minerality that give the wine its sense of drive. Mint, rosemary and yellow-fleshed fruits linger on the finish with the classic DP reductive overtones that are such a signature. Once again, the 2004 Dom Pérignon truly shines. The 2004 Dom Pérignon is a wine to treasure over the next thirty or so years.”

“This tasting only serves to highlight just how great the 2004 Dom Pérignon is. A wine that has totally blossomed in bottle, the 2004 is firing on all cylinders right now. Rich, ample and beautifully nuanced, the 2004 has it all; expressive aromatics, deep fruit and more than enough structure to age well for decades. I have been tasting the 2004 since before it was released and it just keeps getting better and better. Today, it is stunning. It is amazing to consider that in 2004, yields were the largest ever recorded in Champagne.”

“Vivid yellow. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, quince and jasmine, with smoke and toasted grain qualities adding bass notes. Spicy, penetrating and pure, boasting impressive vivacity to its fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Gains weight and breadth with air while maintaining vivacity, picking up a gingery nuance that carries through a long, smoky finish. I'd bet on this taut, youthful Champagne rewarding many more years of patience.”

“Lily-of-the-valley perfume and scents of lightly toasted brioche and almond rise from the glass of Moet’s 2004 Brut Dom Perignon, along with hints of the apricot, pear and grapefruit that then inform a luscious and creamy yet strikingly delicate as well as consummately refreshing palate. Sweet-saline savor of scallop – also already intimated in the nose – lends compulsive saliva-inducement to a ravishingly rarified and persistent finish, joined by alkaline, nutty, liquid-floral, and nori seaweed notes for a performance of head-scratching subtlety and intrigue. (In case my description hasn’t already made clear, we have here inter alia a fantastic sushi wine.) This will be worth following for at least the next 6-8 years, in the course of demonstrating that iconic status as a luxury brand, and elevated (albeit secret) production numbers by no means preclude a wine of understated as well as profound beauty.”

“There’s a sense of tension paired with grace in this deftly balanced version, with a rich and smoky vein of minerality underscoring the flavors of poached apple, honey, financier and sun-dried black cherry, showing hints of roasted almond, coffee liqueur and ground spice. Drink now through 2029”

“Very pale straw gold with surely the most discreet bubbles in the champagne world. Very different from the 2003. A much more recognisable Dom Pérignon sort of nose with fairly intense classic toastiness. Minerals and raciness rather than fruit and body. Marked acidity and even a little lean but very fine. There are notes of iodine and bitter orange peel. This wine really gets saliva flowing. The finish is not massively persistent but overall this is a very well mannered wine. A Chablis of a champagne - which 2003 definitely wasn't! (It was more of a Pouilly-Fuissé.)”

“The 2004 Dom Pérignon continues to develop beautifully. A vibrant, focused Champagne, the 2004 clearly reflects the personality of the year. Freshly cut flowers, white peaches and pears are woven together in a Champagne that impresses for its focus and energy. Chiseled saline note support the crystalline finish. I imagine the 2004 will always remain relatively bright and linear, but at the same time, each time I have tasted it over the last two years the 2004 seems to have a little more body and broader shoulders. The 2004 will appeal most to readers who find the 2002 and 2003 too exuberant. There is a lot to like in the glass.”

“Tasted blind. Smells almost fishy!.. (Others said saline.) Very tight-knit bead but rather tropical fruit notes. But it’s not as long as some. Flattering. But still very tight.”

“The 2002 Dom Pérignon is unforgettable. Rich, sumptuous and flamboyant to the core, the 2002 captures all of the radiance of a year in which ripeness in the Chardonnays was pushed to the edge. The 2002 is oily and viscous on the palate, with tremendous textural resonance in all of its dimensions. Tropical fruit, pastry and exotic floral notes all build as the 2002 opens up with air. I can still remember the first time I tasted the 2002, here in the Hautvillers cloister, with former Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy. It was thrilling back then, and is every bit as memorable today.”

“Six-litre Methuselah. Very dramatic-looking! They started to measure glycerol levels from 2001, and 2002 has been the highest-glycerol Dom Pérignon ‘by a mile’.
Much deeper gold than the P2 2002. Great tightness and lots of savoury character. Very long and tense. Savoury white burgundy character. Beautiful stuff!
Drink 2016-2026”

“Disgorged July 2009. RS 6 g/l. 51% Chardonnay, 49% Pinot Noir. From Moët Hennessy UK.
Tasted blind. Very alluring nose. Very complex. Heady nose. Rich and really rather beautiful. Very complete. Rich but not sweet. Love the reverberation. Long and throbbing. Rich but appetising. Winston?”

“Beautifully toasty and creamy nose with charming sweet fragrant fruit and sensuous white flower character. Delicate yet intensive. Opulent coffee bean, straw, peach, caramel, vanilla and gunpowder notes. Pure, bright fruit, coolly creamy palate with linear structure and long, salivating lemony length. Fine and tight, focused and finely detailed structure full of energy. Plenty of potential here. It has got it all.”

“Wonderfully caressing and typical. The silkiness and balance impress most, along with a fluffy, creamy tone and stylish nuttiness. A great Dom Pérignon that charms from the start, but certainly not to be opened over the next four.”

“The 2002 Dom Pérignon speaks to opulence and intensity. Rich, layered and voluptuous in the glass, the 2002 shows off its flamboyant personality with flair. Butter, cooked apple and tropically-leaning fruits mesh together effortlessly. Interestingly, with time in the glass the 2002 gains in freshness and energy without losing its essential opulence. The elevated ripeness of the year gives the 2002 Dom Pérignon distinctly Puligny-Montrachet leaning inflections. Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy adds that August that year was hot and very dry. Rain towards the end of the month and into early September freshened the vines and accelerated the final phase of ripening. This is yet another fabulous showing from the 2002, which continues to cement its reputation as a truly epic Dom Pérignon.”

“Tasted blind. Mid pale gold. Savour and some evolution. Lots of complexity on the nose – even some honeyed character on the palate. Hint of ginger. Tiny slightly lazy bubbles. More advanced bottle than some others? 2002? ”

“Honey, almonds, butter, tropical fruit and brioche are some of the notes that emerge in the 2002 Dom Pérignon. Here the flavors are bold, rich and exotic, as they have always been, while the textural feel is one of pure exuberance. The 2002 remains dense, honeyed and totally voluptuous on the palate, with more than enough density to drink well for decades The style will always remain opulent to the core.”

“The 2002 Dom Pérignon is just beginning to enter the second stage of its life where the primary flavors are receding, but at the same time the more mature notes have not yet developed. Today, the 2002 stands out for its texture, balance and overall harmony. Hints of apricot, white flowers, honey and spices flesh out on the resonant, creamy finish.”

“Extraordinarily firm, confident, intense nose. Definitely the savoury side of Dom. Nothing remotely sweet or fat - though it's as intense as a Montrachet. Wonderful quality of mousse - surely slightly less bubbly than it has been? More like a Montrachet with a bit of carbon dioxide laced into it than a typical champagne. Broad and long with a hint of orange peel. Great persistence. This already delivers but has such backbone and great acidity and light grip (only noticeable at the very end of the tasting experience) that it surely has a long life ahead of it. Really reaches every hidden cell of the palate. A very assured performance. LVMH at its very best?”

“The 2002 Dom Pérignon is at first intensely floral, with perfumed jasmine that dominates the bouquet. With time in the glass the wine gains richness as the flavors turn decidedly riper and almost tropical. Ripe apricots, passion fruit and peaches emerge from this flashy, opulent Dom Pérignon. The wine's volume makes it approachable today, but readers in search of more complexity will want to cellar this for at least a few years to allow for some of the baby fat to drop off. Geoffroy describes the vintage as very ripe and adds that some of the Chardonnay showed the ill-effects of the hot growing season in it the somewhat burned, dehydrated fruit that came in that year. This bottle was disgorged in July, 2009. To be released summer 2010.”

“The 2002 Dom Pérignon P2 is wonderfully open in its aromatics, but a bit less giving on the palate, especially next to the regular release. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint and white pepper open up first, followed by hints of apricot, honey, chamomile and light tropical notes. Interestingly, the P2 is quite a bit less tropical than the original release. Chef de Caves Vincent Chaperon told me he thinks the original release shows more of a buttery character because of the combination of the ripeness of the vintage and the natural evolution of the wine post-disgorgement under crown seal, as opposed to the P2 which stayed much longer on its lees. It is hard to know if that is an exact explanation, but the reality is that the two 2002s are quite far apart stylistically.”

“Stunningly rich and pristinely fruity leesy and toasty nose with plenty of age impact. Multi-faceted showing hay, honey, candied lemon and butter. Fine intense creaminess on the sumptuous but linear and persistent finish that shows increasing minerality towards the end. Soft and caressing. At a lovely drinking phase in 75cl bottle, highly youthful in magnum.”

“To be released later in 2019.
Deep straw. Very much in its mature phase with intense Dom P character, as though a tincture of Dom P! Creamy and round without a single edge to it, Almost spherical in impression and shape. Where lemon meets bergamot on the nose, and both delicate in texture and rich in flavour on the palate. Pure pleasure. Exceptionally long. A bit of a triumph really. A great legacy.”

“This was a preview of a wine soon to be released. Richard Geoffroy was told P2 was ‘beyond champagne’ which he didn’t like – he feels it’s Dom Pérignon but more so. Great drive and line. A really linear wine that initially seemed like a corseted version of 2002 but is actually so intense and concentrated that is tastes like Dom Pérignon squared.”

“The 2002 Dom Pérignon P2 is still a youthful wine, but it is beginning to develop appreciable complexity, wafting from the glass with notes of of iodine, warm bread, ripe orchard fruit, peach, citrus oil, smoke and peat, which in Geoffroy's words "are on the verge of aromatic over-ripeness." On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a textural, voluminous profile, pinpoint bubbles and a chalky, phenolic finish. This is a ripe and powerful Dom Pérignon that finds its closest stylistic analogy in the 1990 vintage, and it is considerably less evolved than the more tertiary 2000 P2 today. While the P2 is a bit drier and more precise on the finish than the original release, given the wine's slow evolution the difference between the two is less pronounced than it has been for any vintage since 1996.”

“Now this is Dom P at its most classic! Biscuity nose with butter and biscuit dough but with great freshness and delicacy too. Really lovely. Great poise and – still – lots of tension!”