The newly released Dom Pérignon 2018 is the first of what promises to be a fascinating trilogy of great, solar-driven vintages – 2018, 2019 and 2020 – and importantly, it is Vincent Chaperon’s first creation as Cellar Master.
2018 was exceptionally warm, with summer temperatures exceeding even 2003 and both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir reaching record levels of ripeness. Chaperon’s challenge was therefore not ripeness, but how to retain freshness, tension and balance – something he achieved in part through a very deliberate choice of villages and vineyard exposures.
The choice of fruit was crucial. On the Montagne de Reims, Chaperon drew heavily on Pinot Noir from Verzenay, where the northerly aspect of the vineyards brought a cooler, fresher profile to the blend, complemented by a touch of Aÿ Pinot Noir for spice. From the Côte des Blancs, much of the Chardonnay came from Chouilly, bringing a more mineral-driven character. Together these elements helped provide the freshness and structure needed to balance the extraordinary ripeness of 2018. The final blend is 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir.
The early critical response is exceptional: Antonio Galloni 98/100, James Suckling 99/100 and Jancis Robinson MW 18+/20. Perhaps even more interesting for serious Champagne collectors, Essi Avellan MW gives 2018 a potential 98/100, placing it amongst a very small group of Dom Pérignon vintages to which she has given such potential.
